Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det Doesnt Have Injector Pulse On 1,3,5 What Do I Do?

falky929

By falky929,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

falky929 Rising Star

falky929

Posted
Posted

i have a rb20det it doenst have injector pulse on cyclinders 1,3,5. i have changed the ecu over with another ecu that works made no differance at all i have allso test all the injector wires back to the ecu pins and they are fine. what can it be?????? i did notice that the injectors have power running to them all the time even when the cars switched off is that ment to happen?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
i have a rb20det it doenst have injector pulse on cyclinders 1,3,5. i have changed the ecu over with another ecu that works made no differance at all i have allso test all the injector wires back to the ecu pins and they are fine. what can it be?????? i did notice that the injectors have power running to them all the time even when the cars switched off is that ment to happen?

The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on.

If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths.

Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire.

If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

talky Proficient

talky

Posted
Posted

try tap the injectors with a screwdriver or something mine did this all fixed now .......has the car been sitting for a while?also as mentioned previously make sure you loom is in good working order i had abodgey loom keept pumping fuel hydrulic my motor !!!

falky929 Rising Star

falky929

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on.

If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths.

Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire.

If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

yeah ive checked them seems to be fine but must be brocken some where. so what ur saying is if there gettin power all the time it wont be able to pulse there for the injectors wont work. all so its geting power to ALL injectors all the time but only cylinders 1,3,5 dont have a pulse?

falky929 Rising Star

falky929

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yeah ive checked them seems to be fine but must be brocken some where. so what ur saying is if there gettin power all the time it wont be able to pulse there for the injectors wont work. all so its geting power to ALL injectors all the time but only cylinders 1,3,5 dont have a pulse?

allso car starts but only runs on 3cyclinders if that helps

falky929 Rising Star

falky929

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on.

If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths.

Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire.

If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

the only way to stop the power goin to the injectors when the car is switched off is when u take the 25amp engine controll fuse out thats in the bonnit or take the ecu out

  • 5 years later...
Scott Black Rising Star

Scott Black

Posted
Posted

Well have you checked if you have 12v with ignition on to one side of each injector? If not then you have a break in the harness on the power side of the injector harness. If you do then you need to trace each pin on the other side of each injector back to the ecu. And if you do and that all checks out then it just leaves a dead injector driver on the ecu board then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Curlyfred
      Hiya!

      By Curlyfred · Posted

      Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • GTSBoy
      r34's love to squeal

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...