Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a rb20det it doenst have injector pulse on cyclinders 1,3,5. i have changed the ecu over with another ecu that works made no differance at all i have allso test all the injector wires back to the ecu pins and they are fine. what can it be?????? i did notice that the injectors have power running to them all the time even when the cars switched off is that ment to happen?

i have a rb20det it doenst have injector pulse on cyclinders 1,3,5. i have changed the ecu over with another ecu that works made no differance at all i have allso test all the injector wires back to the ecu pins and they are fine. what can it be?????? i did notice that the injectors have power running to them all the time even when the cars switched off is that ment to happen?

The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on.

If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths.

Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire.

If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

try tap the injectors with a screwdriver or something mine did this all fixed now .......has the car been sitting for a while?also as mentioned previously make sure you loom is in good working order i had abodgey loom keept pumping fuel hydrulic my motor !!!

The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on.

If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths.

Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire.

If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

yeah ive checked them seems to be fine but must be brocken some where. so what ur saying is if there gettin power all the time it wont be able to pulse there for the injectors wont work. all so its geting power to ALL injectors all the time but only cylinders 1,3,5 dont have a pulse?

yeah ive checked them seems to be fine but must be brocken some where. so what ur saying is if there gettin power all the time it wont be able to pulse there for the injectors wont work. all so its geting power to ALL injectors all the time but only cylinders 1,3,5 dont have a pulse?

allso car starts but only runs on 3cyclinders if that helps

The injectors should only have power while the ignition is on.

If they have power all the time then either the injectors have burnt out internally or there is a problem with your main loom powers/earths.

Check the main power wires, they run around the base of the strut tower on the turbo side and up to a large rectangle plug beside the power steering res. Make sure nothing is melted/grounded/joined to another wire.

If you have a 12v power connected to the trigger wire, you'll still get continuity back to the ECU but you'll get constant power at that wire which means the injector will not pulse

the only way to stop the power goin to the injectors when the car is switched off is when u take the 25amp engine controll fuse out thats in the bonnit or take the ecu out

  • 5 years later...

Well have you checked if you have 12v with ignition on to one side of each injector? If not then you have a break in the harness on the power side of the injector harness. If you do then you need to trace each pin on the other side of each injector back to the ecu. And if you do and that all checks out then it just leaves a dead injector driver on the ecu board then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...