Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Be kind to Jason, the poor bugger might have a poor set up on the rear end of his car.

Have you had a wheel alignment since you have owned the car and if so what was the rear camber?

I would be having a good close look at that first as excessive negative camber made mine a pig in the wet when it landed ex-Japan.

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I reckon get better tyres & fix up the factory camber.. I could smash the pedal on my old 250rwkW R33 in 3rd in the wet and it would barely spin

I was running -0.8mm camber either side (couldn't make it any more neutral) and 255 Kumho KU31 SPTs pumped up to 38 psi and toed in 0.5mm either side.

learn throttle control in the wet lol, I can drive with the shitest tyres that were 100 a side and with 270kw I can make it not slide in the wet just control your foot.

thx man i will

Easy fix. Buy Nismoids Laser and learn Gary's foot control. You will be the bane of wet roads. I can just see you taking corners at 20, 30 or even deadly 40's

lol

Lasers are a lot of things.....cutting edge isn't f**kin one of them!!

I'd argue there. It was the only car that didn't require servicing I've ever known of...

About 18months, drove it within an inch of its life for around 35,000km's and not once did i spend a cent other than petrol :P

I reckon get better tyres & fix up the factory camber.. I could smash the pedal on my old 250rwkW R33 in 3rd in the wet and it would barely spin

I was running -0.8mm camber either side (couldn't make it any more neutral) and 255 Kumho KU31 SPTs pumped up to 38 psi and toed in 0.5mm either side.

this cant be right. i run same kumho's in 265 @38psi. rear camber is -1deg. around 220kw, smash the pedal in 3rd in the wet, and it's on for young and old.

Edited by Munkyb0y
hi all. im totally new in skyline sense.

coz the weather recently , i found my car is really slippery in wet. although in 3 gear around 3000rpm, it still can go side way on a straight line accelerating.

is it normal?

i ve checked my tyre, still in good condition. i was just worrying is it because any inappropriate setting

R33 GTST SeriesII

190kw at 12psi

Falken tyre: F235 R255

thx :P

dude get an alignement good wet/dry tires and dont put your foot down so hard

Put a pair of space savers on ur car and try to negotiate round a bouts in the rain.

I can say this because I'm not on the same roads as u. Maybe u should warn the locals though.

My first car was an 89 ke laser. I loved it. Couldnt kill it. I dont know how it survived untouched

thx man

so which brand r u recommended ?

There's a sticky thread about which tyre to choose. A lot of the higher performance tyres are designed to be great in dry weather and not so good in wet weather.

Look at the street tyres if you want something decent in wet weather, but you should be driving every carefully in wet weather with any tyre, otherwise you won't have the car long...

I second that. Ease off the throttle a little more and granny drive more in the wet regardless of what tyres you run in. Wet = less traction, less traction = less control in an emergency. I throttled harder than normal at the lights once in the wet and my wheels lost traction. I eased off, grannied for the rest of the trip and all was fine again.

There's a sticky thread about which tyre to choose. A lot of the higher performance tyres are designed to be great in dry weather and not so good in wet weather.

Look at the street tyres if you want something decent in wet weather, but you should be driving every carefully in wet weather with any tyre, otherwise you won't have the car long...

He's asking about trying to do the safe thing and get more grip which all of us should be pushing to make sure we have as much control over our cars as possible. He's not some idiot asking to make it easier to fish tail everywhere all the time cause its 'cool' to be a duche... so easy up on the comments on someone who is new and hes trying to do the RIGHT thing.

I had something like this when I first got my line, had a good/expensive set of Potenza's on there and had brillant grip in the dry but as soon as it was a little wet it was bad always loosing traction even under 10kmph/1500-2000rpm if the road was slippery enough.

Check your tyres, there are different types of tyres i.e. ones that perform better in dry/wet situations. Also, check or get your suspension checked out, I had stockies that had tighter springs on the front, therefore making my car dip at the front so the rear was really light and liked to jump around. If your suspension is really worn then this also explains why your having issues with grip as when you loose grip your suspension is suppose to apply force and help hold your wheel to the ground so you have contact with the surface, obviously the more contact you have, the more grip you have.

After I changed my suspension setup + tyres to my liking, I've been in complete control at all times unlike before.

Also, (try this as a temp) if your tyres are pumped up a lot say 38/40psi try lowering them to 33/35psi as the tread will hug the road more meaning you'd have more grip.

PS you may not think of it this way, but getting more grip means the power your engine is making more of it will be going to the road meaning you will be making more power safely. :)

lol

I'd argue there. It was the only car that didn't require servicing I've ever known of...

About 18months, drove it within an inch of its life for around 35,000km's and not once did i spend a cent other than petrol :)

I blew the head gasket 3 times in mine and the 4th bottle of sealup didn't fix it. Apparently it doesn't seal oil gallery vs cylinder leaks....only water ones.

I got $40 for it in scrap metal. Well worth it.......still not cutting edge

He's asking about trying to do the safe thing and get more grip which all of us should be pushing to make sure we have as much control over our cars as possible. He's not some idiot asking to make it easier to fish tail everywhere all the time cause its 'cool' to be a duche... so easy up on the comments on someone who is new and hes trying to do the RIGHT thing.

I had something like this when I first got my line, had a good/expensive set of Potenza's on there and had brillant grip in the dry but as soon as it was a little wet it was bad always loosing traction even under 10kmph/1500-2000rpm if the road was slippery enough.

Check your tyres, there are different types of tyres i.e. ones that perform better in dry/wet situations. Also, check or get your suspension checked out, I had stockies that had tighter springs on the front, therefore making my car dip at the front so the rear was really light and liked to jump around. If your suspension is really worn then this also explains why your having issues with grip as when you loose grip your suspension is suppose to apply force and help hold your wheel to the ground so you have contact with the surface, obviously the more contact you have, the more grip you have.

After I changed my suspension setup + tyres to my liking, I've been in complete control at all times unlike before.

Also, (try this as a temp) if your tyres are pumped up a lot say 38/40psi try lowering them to 33/35psi as the tread will hug the road more meaning you'd have more grip.

PS you may not think of it this way, but getting more grip means the power your engine is making more of it will be going to the road meaning you will be making more power safely. :rofl2:

tl;dr

this is no place for serious posting :)

Actually erderr, keep tyres pumped UP, or even UPPER, in the wet. It holds the tread open so it can shed water better.

Back to the OP - what suspension do you have? If you have Japanese "coilovers", the suspension will be quite stiff. This does not allow good weight transfer on acceleration, and the drive wheels will lose traction in the wet. I had a 240Z with VERY stiff rear springs - in the wet, I could spin wheels DOWN Mt Jane (Calder).

I don't know a single person with 190-200rwkw (because they usually have factory turbo still fitted) that can stop it from wheel spinning past 3k in the wet. Tyres will help, wheel alignment will help suspension will help.....it's always going to spin in the wet if you put your foot down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
    • hows it fellas, my first post here which seems crazy cos half the forums i read are like the same age as me haha. to make a long story short ive got an r34 sedan (rb25de neo auto) which im swapping to a s0/s1? rb25det, r33 big box and nismo gt pro lsd. i have the motor and gearbox all bolted up outside the car, old motor and trans out. i bought the motor with stock ecu and loom, do i switch over to that? or will it be easier to get a r34 manual ecu and keep the loom if thats even possible.  also engine mounts look different, anything else thats different or incompatible? cheers, hope this all makes sense Paddy
    • att.4QNbuJlz_gNZPFBGFqeEvxSUHXkGt7z40V59MrtXTPg.mp4    
×
×
  • Create New...