Jump to content
SAU Community

1995 Nissan Skyline R33 Gtr Vspec

bigmikespec
 Share

Recommended Posts

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Owned for nearly three years since imported from Japan and done 86,000kms. In the time that I have had it has only done 15,000kms. At the moment this is an expression of interest; reason I may part with it is that I may move on and buy a R34 GTR or go all out with a project GTR of some description.

Interior:

- All original and near perfect condition for its age. Nissan floor mats and Motul seat cover for driver’s seat.

Exterior:

- Original wine red colour, also great condition for its age.

Driveline:

- NPC single plate carbotic button clutch; when it was installed (500kms ago) I got the tailshaft rebuilt with a new centre bearing and balanced.

- NPC billet machined flywheel

- Redline gear oils in the front and rear diffs, Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the gearbox, Nissan Matic D in transfer case.

Suspension/handling:

- Bilstein PSS9 coilovers fully adjustable height and damper

- Whiteline swaybars (adjustable) front and rear

- Noltec subframe bushes

- Every OEM suspension bushing was replaced with new Superpro ones as well as adjustable camber bushes in the front upper arms

- All ball joints were replaced with Nissan OEM or aftermarket ones

- Whiteline adjustable upper arms with bushes not rod ends

- All bolts were stripped and replated zinc/gold passivate

- All suspension arms and subframe were sand blasted, primed and re-painted in black (2pak)

- Kuhmo KU36 tyres not even 2000kms old

Engine:

- Vipec V88 using MAP sensor (periodically tuned to upgrade software and ensure good engine health)

- Bosch 044 fuel pump in-tank controlled by Vipec (so no noise at idle)

- Trust Power Evo. II cat back exhaust (still have stock one and stock cat to go with car)

- Serviced every 5000kms with Motul 300V Chrono

- Makes 250kW at all four wheels at 12psi (dyno sheet available) also achieves 10.5-11.0L/100km

Basically all the mods I have done are to ensure the reliability and driveability of the car and I have probably spent easy $12-15k on it on top of the price of the car. If someone was to buy it with the intention of taking it to the track all it would need is a built engine; the hard part has been done by me as far as handling and driveline is concerned. Even a pair of GT-SS/-9 turbos and injectors will see a healthy 300kW and complete the car very nicely.

I have receipts for everything and have spent a lot of man hours especially with the suspension and handling. It was almost a restoration but well worth at as it handles beautifully!

I would like to think I could get mid-low $30k so will consider offers in that region. It is a beautiful example of a R33 Skyline GTR Vspec and has been very well looked after! If there is no interest I will probably keep it but if the opportunity presented itself a new owner would not be disappointed.

Contact via PM or SMS/call 0432 562 025

A few photos below apologies for the quality, some betters ones coming up this weekend:

post-48167-1288856343_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1288856357_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1288856386_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343044-1995-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-vspec/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      First/Second Post

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • soviet_merlin
      Oem radio & steering wheel shroud for r33 (vic)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...