Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah and that was in regards to piston slap, you seem to think tomei pistons are way out of everyones budget, i picked up a set for a few hundred dollars more, so why not go the extra? also read up on other forums other then skyaus (in relation to piston slap) and see what you find, it may shock you.....

Metallurgical expasion rate can be taken into consideration when developing engine clearances, this means that the overriding key area of interest in the reduction of "slap" will be the tolerances of the engine.

People on GTROC seem to have this almost religious belief in the abilities of a handful of people which is fair considering some of the posters on that website are very very talented people.

However on average I have never heard such a large torrent of absolute crap from a large number of people who really don't know what they are talking about.

Thanks for that.

Got any facts to post up, maybe some of the data you've correlated from "reading thousands of forum posts" ?

It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

Edited by SimonR32
It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

Thanks for the Tip Simon :) and yes, Much much more impressive.

And that is quite an amusing find, lets end this now in the obvious absence of facts there really isn't anything more helpful to say.

PS sweet 32 Mate.

Cheers,

Mitch.

It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

look at the date and see when that was actually posted! :)

It was actually thousands of forum threads... SOOO much more impressive :)

EDIT: Also found this rather amusing after all his preaching http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...ds-t326991.html

must have been a lot of reading done between Jun and Oct wouldn't you say? :)

4 months, and lets just say 1,000 threads - average what - 20 posts to be fair about all the drama's of these piston slapping motors...

160 posts/day read... LOL...

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least?

what im thinking now:

adjustible cam gears

gates timing belt

poncams

standard rods (recon'd)

standard pistons (new with new rings)

N1 oil pump (or standard?, probally no need for n1 at 300>350hp)

N1 water pump (same as above, only effective at higher rpm anyway, opinons?)

power fc

s15 470cc injectors

recon'd head

ballanced bottom end

ARP head studs

ARP main studs

ACL Main bearings

ACL Rod bearings

Lightened flywheel

R34 turbo (op-6 rear housing, possible highflow)

Edited by XxNinjaxX
must have been a lot of reading done between Jun and Oct wouldn't you say? :unsure:

4 months, and lets just say 1,000 threads - average what - 20 posts to be fair about all the drama's of these piston slapping motors...

160 posts/day read... LOL...

oh cmon now, bringing the negativity again. It's about time we all got back on topic now dont you think. If you have anyting more to say to me. please contact my privatly. Going on about how many threads i can read in a 4 month peroid, hahahha thats just f**king ridiculous yet typicall for some!

Tomei's are made in there own warehouse as with all there items.

simply no. Just like other jap manufacturers i would bet they are made to order (to their spec) by other large companies... like carrillo (for the rods) and cosworth etc for pistons. I have Multiple jap branded items here in my hand now like rods and they are Jap branded yet have carrillo markings and the pistons are also in the same boat, my rb26 that is for sale has Greddy pistons in it and i know for a fact they dont make them in house. These itmes are exclusive to the jap brands and dont show up in the carrillo or cosworth catalogues.

Another example is I have two sets of JUN pistons here for RB26 and there is $500 between the two of them, the premium one is a Cosworth manufactured item (different crown design again to the greddy) the other is a Wossner more budget orientated design.... poor customer got shafted by an online seller who sent the cheaper series instead of the ordered high spec ones :unsure:

Mines are using Mahle as their supplier for R35 GTR pistons.

Find a successful engine builder in your area, tell them your requirements and let them put together a proven package.

If the engine builder hasnt used your combo before he wont have had the experience on how to set them up to be the most reliable.

Building a reliable engine with moderately low power is not about using the best of every part but getting a proven package that works well together. The best example of this is a factory engine.

sounds to me like you just want to be able to tell people you have a forged engine and that you built it yourself.....

as far as im concerned a standard rb25 thats been serviced and tuned well should hit 200000ks no worries, i'd also trust an unopened used engine more than a first time forged item some guy built in his shed.

your basically spending 5k+ for bragging rights?

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least?

what im thinking now:

adjustible cam gears

gates timing belt

poncams

standard rods (recon'd)

standard pistons (new with new rings)could get forged for similar price??

N1 oil pump (or standard?, probally no need for n1 at 300>350hp)

N1 water pump (same as above, only effective at higher rpm anyway, opinons?)

power fc

s15 470cc injectors

recon'd head

ballanced bottom end

ARP head studs

ARP main studs

ACL Main bearings

ACL Rod bearings

Lightened flywheel

R34 turbo (op-6 rear housing, possible highflow)highflow can be up to 300kw

IF you want to build it yourself for the experience, just get new rings and bearings, gaskets belt etc.

unless youre going to search for some sort of power above what stock can produce for years then dont waste your money!

stock bolts have been proven for FAR greater power levels many times.

Once completed put it in your car, then you can Rebuild the current one with better parts seeing as you'll now you have more experience and know how because youve already built one...

i do understand a 2nd hand motor would be alot easier, cheaper and quicker than a build but although the standard motor is capable of handling over my target power level happily i'd still prefer to do a build and make it just that little bit stronger for my piece of mind and just the general satisfaction i would have from building it. even if it does blow up at least i gave it a crack which im sure is more than some of the more cashed up members on here could say for themselves.. fair enough if you can afford to pay for your engine to be built by a workshop but from my p.o.v i'd much rather give it a go and learn from my possible mistakes, the build is going to be almost standard with a few upgraded bits here and there, call me stupid and say im spending money on unnessisary items but for me i really dont see the point in a build or even a secondhand motor if it was just going to be completely standard again. i say if you going to take the time to build a motor or swap one out why not make the most of it and improve it atleast a little at the very least?

I get exactly where you are coming from but you are pretty much guaranteed to fail which would be a pitty considering you would just be throwing your money down the drain.

I would highly recommend just getting a replacement donk, Nissan have built 1000's of these motors and I could pretty much put my hand on my heart and say they are the best at doing it. They may not be as strong as a forged motor but with the turbo and power you are after they will take any punishment you can throw at them! Building a motor yourself no matter what parts you use won't be a improvement it WILL be a step backwards.

I'm in Perth as well and have access to a very cheap NEO motor with low kms and not abused that would be perfect for what you need.

PM me if you are interested.

Cheers

Simon

I think they are exchange or sent your motor and they will rebuild it.

I mean pure crat motor, ie pay on Monday and a big box of engine turns up later in the week.

yeah, can do them outright. but i see where youre coming from!!

like going through a catalogue and picking that ONE!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...