Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

haha.. sounds like a great tyre to put on the r31 :D the retreads are starting to go.. although for retreads they have copped a fair bit of abuse.

man victoria is so depressing.. its going to be good to be back in QLD I tell you!

hmmmmm yeah nagkangs, I have heard they are good for no grip, sorry I would've paid the $30 each more for the falkens, grip is awesome out of them, but then again, they could've been out of your budjet, but yeah I have hear they are the crazy clarks of tyres :D

I used to have Nankangs on my car, they must have been the cheapest tyres they could find that would pass compliance. They were terrible, absolutely no grip, dangerous in the wet (braking down a hill was nearly impossible without locking the fronts!) and very unpredictable. Without any warning they'd just let go, I had some sphincter-puckering moments catching sudden, violent back end slides with the Nankangs on. I put a decent set of tyres on and the difference was like night and day. The car no longer felt like it was trying to kill me :D

well ze326 i guess don't feel unsafe, but they don't really grip too well.. but considering how you like to spin the tyres they'll be ok for that :D I got about 15,000km and about 12 months out of the rears on my r33. Thats not good value, no matter how little they cost.

well i was thinking about the r31 and how much.. I would have to ask around $2k.. which is more than i paid.. but i can't give it away, even if I do know the person :D I've seen a few r31 around, and some that sell for even $3k aren't too much worse off than mine. its got aircon (just needs more gas), sports steering wheel, mp3 face unit, couple of decent kenwood speakers, hardly any rust, loud exhaust, everything works, and it still drives fine. A p-plater would love it.

I'm in no rush.. r32 needs to be on the road b4 i even think about it.

well ze326 i guess don't feel unsafe, but they don't really grip too well.. but considering how you like to spin the tyres they'll be ok for that :D I got about 15,000km and about 12 months out of the rears on my r33. Thats not good value, no matter how little they cost.

well i was thinking about the r31 and how much.. I would have to ask around $2k.. which is more than i paid.. but i can't give it away, even if I do know the person :) I've seen a few r31 around, and some that sell for even $3k aren't too much worse off than mine. its got aircon (just needs more gas), sports steering wheel, mp3 face unit, couple of decent kenwood speakers, hardly any rust, loud exhaust, everything works, and it still drives fine. A p-plater would love it.  

I'm in no rush.. r32 needs to be on the road b4 i even think about it.

I'll giva ya filly dollar for the bottom end in the R31 :D

an old-schooler?

NISSAN SKYLINE 2 DOOR COUPE 1978 model, 2.4L 6 cylinder (L24 carby), 5spd, a/cond, mechanically sound, body straight, little rust, 17in Voltec rims & tyres, black cloth interior, fully instrumentated dash, ideal RB20 or RB30 conversion. GC all round, unreg. -$2350 neg Rochedale South (0404) 270 350 after 6.00pm.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
    • I'm a bit stuck with this one fellas, I recently decided to undertake a turbo conversion on my GTS-4, ended up pulling the motor to replace all the seals and do an mls head gasket and arp head studs while I was at it. Everything has gone according to plan, no oil or coolant leaks, compression checked out, and decided to give it a test before I book it in for a tune As it stands right now, the turbo only has oil lines plumbed so that I don't put boost into my untuned engine, and I'm using the factory GTS-T crossover pipe with a maf and poddy as a temporary intake. The car starts with relative ease and idles amazingly, however as the title suggests it really doesn't want to rev up, runs very smooth but almost feels choked out and unresponsive to the throttle, almost like it's running lean or something? I've triple checked my vacuum lines and timing with a timing light, injectors haven't been touched as of yet to avoid flooding the engine and worked perfectly beforehand, new plugs and coilpacks, I've even unbolted the cat just to see if it spontaneously collapsed, no dice The car currently has a nistune r32 gtst ecu installed so I have no way to check for fault codes. At this point I'm a bit stumped. Is this normal behaviour for a car with a turbo bolted onto the exhaust going nowhere? I'd imagine the turbo wouldn't cause this much restriction in the exhaust without the boost going through the intake. Any ideas? If necessary I can link a video of how it responds to full throttle while in neutral.  
    • Insert tab A into slot B?
    • Instructions seem simple enough to understand.....
×
×
  • Create New...