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Nope. The seal is in the drive. A new cable would just fill up and continue to convey oil to the speedo head. To check if this is what is happening, take the cluster out, dismantle the speedo and have a look. You probably don't even have to dismantle it. If there is oil coming up the cable, the drive into the speedo will be grossly greasy. I had to manually (and delicately) clean the gunk out of my speedo. -
Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car. -
It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)
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OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)
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Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear
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