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    • Donut tried them out, they were fine as long as the bolt or nut wasn’t very tight 
    • It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here. 
    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
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