Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

The stock BOV IS FREAKIN LOUD! And yeah with that setup it did idle properly, just need a bit of pressure buildup in the bov for some reason, dunno why, but yeah took it off because instead of getting ~450kms to a tank of petrol I was getting ~250kms, lots of backfiring and just ran really roughly and super hell rich, hence the high fuel consumption.

So put it all back, miss the PPPPSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHTTTTTTTTTTTT though :)

The stock BOV IS FREAKIN LOUD! And yeah with that setup it did idle properly, just need a bit of pressure buildup in the bov for some reason, dunno why, but yeah took it off because instead of getting ~450kms to a tank of petrol I was getting ~250kms, lots of backfiring and just ran really roughly and super hell rich, hence the high fuel consumption.

So put it all back, miss the PPPPSSSSSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHTTTTTTTTTTTT though :)

Why dont you buy a non-stock bov then?? :).... 250kms is rediculous!!

WA is full of dyno queens and ricers :)

i have seen more riced up hondas than on lygon street in vic

oh and it is really easy for mining jobs in particular at the moment.. got 5 openings for drivers.. close over 50k a year package with medical dental and super... shift work though and 12 hr days

Why dont you buy a non-stock bov then?? :).... 250kms is rediculous!!

Why because i want an exhaust first, ebc then maybe might think about atmo bov, might, love that sound though, really miss it, prolly get a pod first, then the sound of the stock bov will actually be hearable from either the pod or big zaust :)

i have seen more riced up hondas than on lygon street in vic

oh and it is really easy for mining jobs in particular at the moment.. got 5 openings for drivers.. close over 50k a year package with medical dental and super... shift work though and 12 hr days

Ummm when can I start? 50k WHOLY CRAP!

:Pres-hit:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...