Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • chaos

    7164

  • Ska

    5791

  • BelGarion

    3645

  • Nexus9

    3590

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Warwick! Where were you yesterday? We had HEAPS of fun :D

The new cooler is great :D I'm in love!

I would have liked to come, but was in Sydney for the weekend...hard to pass up a free weekend at the Park Hyatt

and I am extremely jealous of your new cooler :)

cyrus: thanks!

26/2/04

Genuine N1 Nissan Water Pump - $156

GTR Timing Belt - $98 (Gav only uses GTR belts)

I also had to replace the two tensioners too all up was $950 for:

timing belt

water pump

2 x tensioners

alt, air and ps belts

coolant inhibitor & bleed cooling

radiator cap

labour

I... Of course... was only reffering to thursday nights :D

:)

Haha...

Yes well *cough* Brisbane's thursday night organisings are a bit uhm... *cough*

The only I can think of that actually "went" somewhere was Gordo's one. *shrugs*

As I said to Cyrus when he was whinging about brisbane's organising skills, we are in a city.. where there aren't many good places to go cruising to for fun. Down the coast are big wide open roads with no public around in areas which makes it a lot easier to organise somewhere to go. *shrugs*

Oh wells.

I would have liked to come, but was in Sydney for the weekend...hard to pass up a free weekend at the Park Hyatt

and I am extremely jealous of your new cooler :D

It's very prewdy :) I can't wait to see what it does on wednesday night.. and then again at the next one.

I'm HOPING to have it in for fine tuning on Monday 10th May, then I'll go to the next test and tune after that and the Dyno day. :D

hrmmmm cyrus, mine cost me 350bucks, minus tensioners and pump, but plus gearbox and diff oil and engine oil and filter, and fuel filter

Yeah tensioners alone were friggin nearly $350 one was genuine nissan though Gav explained he tried to find anothe non-genuine, but I wanted the car back so he didnt have time ot source one, meh I am happy with the results so money well spent imho!

yowch! see that is why i have held off :)

how'd you get it done for $350 john? See i was originally going to get him to do all that shit too.. plus install a camgear.. now its got less and less to just the belt and waterpump .. and me doing the other stuff

matt: photoshop is your friend when it comes to maps

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...