Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r From Ebay On Rb25

HYBRID VL

By HYBRID VL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

HYBRID VL Community Regular

HYBRID VL

Posted
Posted

looking at buying one of these cheap turbos off ebay they are $700 or so GT35R internal gate is what has me thinking of getting it and price i dunno if its decent for price or whatever but its so called 500HP rating .63 AR is what is catching my eye.

Has anyone used these turbos or are they not worth getting involed with or even if i bought one and got say garret to check it out or somthing.

would it be good for an RB25 im guessing spool up time would be very close to a standard RB25 T3 and internally gate would mean less piping and being able to retain standard manifold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343210-gt35r-from-ebay-on-rb25/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Laggy unbalanced bush bearing copy, (I have one here). It would be better to chuck in another few hundred and buy a good secondhand Garrett one from the for sale section, there have been a few in there recently.

STR8E180 Proficient

STR8E180

Posted
Posted
The housing casting are generally ok. So dump the old chra, build a new core, machine the both housings to suit, and it will work.

so basically all you will be doing is buying the turbo just for the housings

sounds like alot of money when your going to bin most of the parts

may as well buy a decent turbo to start of with

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted
The housing casting are generally ok. So dump the old chra, build a new core, machine the both housings to suit, and it will work.

If he bought this turbo by accident I would recommend him to see you about the above. However, seeing as its $700 and he hasnt bought it yet, I am sure your CHRA wont cost under $1000 which is around what this turbo is worth new genuine from garrett.

A .63 non gated one went for $1000 recently on this site I believe, brand new also.

Another thing to note which is yet to be covered, OP stated he assumes it will spool similar to factory. I would like to put on the record that a GT35 of any sort will not spool anything like factory. While I have plenty of faith in them the best description for it compared to factory (in lamens terms) would be laggy.

Consider a highflow if you have the stock turbo at home, they are good when on a tight budget. Hypergear can help.

If money is not an issue, think "setup" rather than "bolt on" and go for the good sheit.

saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted
The housing casting are generally ok. So dump the old chra, build a new core, machine the both housings to suit, and it will work.

... so you're advocating paying $700 plus whatever machining is worth for a couple of housings?

OP: You don't want to do this. Buy a complete new turbo from a place with a warranty; if the budget doesn't

stretch save for a little longer.

Or find someone on this forum selling a used turbo that's willing to have it professionally inspected (at your cost).

Cheers,

Saliya

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ Agreed. The Garrett CHRA is around $1100 - It would cost you MORE to machine/refit than to buy Garrett original in the first place.

You also don't know what the casting it like, its simply a gamble. A very stupid one.

As for the turbo itself: "Brand New GT35 Style"

Keyword - Style.

Its a knock off. Any turbo that retails @ $1700 - should have alarm bells ringing when its $1000 cheaper.

Stay away.

msports180 Mentor

msports180

Posted
Posted

Some mates took a punt and ordered one of the external gate GT35r style turbo's from the states. On the stock manifold with the gate plumbed in between the mani and turbs on a adaptor the gate opens at 3700rpm. Made 320 @ 14psi with a real quick shitty tune.

How long it lasts for is anyone's guess...

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
Posted

<<Thread Hijack Alert>>

I've got a KKR560 on my car. I've had the wastegate hole made bigger etc, so it doesn't have the overboosting problem anymore.

How much would it cost to get it rebuild as a ball bearing unit? I'm assuming that will just bolt straight back on with no modifications? The turbo is only oil-cooled (not water-cooled)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • PLYNX
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By PLYNX · Posted

      Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • BourneToLive
      R32 GTR Park lights issue

      By BourneToLive · Posted

      So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • Duncan
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By Duncan · Posted

      not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • Duncan
      BCNR33/ECR33 Door corner piece replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...