Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looking at buying one of these cheap turbos off ebay they are $700 or so GT35R internal gate is what has me thinking of getting it and price i dunno if its decent for price or whatever but its so called 500HP rating .63 AR is what is catching my eye.

Has anyone used these turbos or are they not worth getting involed with or even if i bought one and got say garret to check it out or somthing.

would it be good for an RB25 im guessing spool up time would be very close to a standard RB25 T3 and internally gate would mean less piping and being able to retain standard manifold.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343210-gt35r-from-ebay-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

Laggy unbalanced bush bearing copy, (I have one here). It would be better to chuck in another few hundred and buy a good secondhand Garrett one from the for sale section, there have been a few in there recently.

  hypergear said:
The housing casting are generally ok. So dump the old chra, build a new core, machine the both housings to suit, and it will work.

so basically all you will be doing is buying the turbo just for the housings

sounds like alot of money when your going to bin most of the parts

may as well buy a decent turbo to start of with

  hypergear said:
The housing casting are generally ok. So dump the old chra, build a new core, machine the both housings to suit, and it will work.

If he bought this turbo by accident I would recommend him to see you about the above. However, seeing as its $700 and he hasnt bought it yet, I am sure your CHRA wont cost under $1000 which is around what this turbo is worth new genuine from garrett.

A .63 non gated one went for $1000 recently on this site I believe, brand new also.

Another thing to note which is yet to be covered, OP stated he assumes it will spool similar to factory. I would like to put on the record that a GT35 of any sort will not spool anything like factory. While I have plenty of faith in them the best description for it compared to factory (in lamens terms) would be laggy.

Consider a highflow if you have the stock turbo at home, they are good when on a tight budget. Hypergear can help.

If money is not an issue, think "setup" rather than "bolt on" and go for the good sheit.

  hypergear said:
The housing casting are generally ok. So dump the old chra, build a new core, machine the both housings to suit, and it will work.

... so you're advocating paying $700 plus whatever machining is worth for a couple of housings?

OP: You don't want to do this. Buy a complete new turbo from a place with a warranty; if the budget doesn't

stretch save for a little longer.

Or find someone on this forum selling a used turbo that's willing to have it professionally inspected (at your cost).

Cheers,

Saliya

^ Agreed. The Garrett CHRA is around $1100 - It would cost you MORE to machine/refit than to buy Garrett original in the first place.

You also don't know what the casting it like, its simply a gamble. A very stupid one.

As for the turbo itself: "Brand New GT35 Style"

Keyword - Style.

Its a knock off. Any turbo that retails @ $1700 - should have alarm bells ringing when its $1000 cheaper.

Stay away.

Some mates took a punt and ordered one of the external gate GT35r style turbo's from the states. On the stock manifold with the gate plumbed in between the mani and turbs on a adaptor the gate opens at 3700rpm. Made 320 @ 14psi with a real quick shitty tune.

How long it lasts for is anyone's guess...

<<Thread Hijack Alert>>

I've got a KKR560 on my car. I've had the wastegate hole made bigger etc, so it doesn't have the overboosting problem anymore.

How much would it cost to get it rebuild as a ball bearing unit? I'm assuming that will just bolt straight back on with no modifications? The turbo is only oil-cooled (not water-cooled)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...