Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh yer opps my bad.Where those 4 wire's branch off from that one power feed,I cut them off,soildered that one wire to the red wire on the resister pack(Thats what gives it power LOL) and the 6 wires from the resister pack go to each side of one injector.

So if you look at http://groups.msn.com/R31Pics/shoebox.msnw...hoto&PhotoID=84 that pic thats why there's all orange wire(I had to soilder on more wire to the original wires from the resister pack coz they were to short) coz they 're going to one side of the injectors.

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Getting my injectors back today, so hopefully will find time in the next week or two to wire it all in

If anyone has any diagrams and such, no matter how rough, anything would be apprieceated

Roy, any joy with obtaining a copy of your fuel and ingintion map :D:) When are you in Adelaide? will have to catch up for a beer or something one night if you are free

R31POWER, have you had yours tuned yet? if so how did it go?

Chris

Getting my injectors back today, so hopefully will find time in the next week or two to wire it all in

If anyone has any diagrams and such, no matter how rough, anything would be apprieceated

Roy, any joy with obtaining a copy of your fuel and ingintion map :);) When are you in Adelaide? will have to catch up for a beer or something one night if you are free

R31POWER, have you had yours tuned yet? if so how did it go?

Chris

Yeh getting my car back mid week, so whould be able to shoot off an email with some basic settings to help get the thing to at leat idle/run to get to your tuner.

BEER!?!?! Alright... now im actually keen to come to Adelaide. Im there from the 3rd October thru to the 10th October. :D (possibly longer we will see)

How long a drive form melb, Ill most likely fly

Yeh getting my car back mid week, so whould be able to shoot off an email with some basic settings to help get the thing to at leat idle/run to get to your tuner.

BEER!?!?! Alright... now im actually keen to come to Adelaide. Im there from the 3rd October thru to the 10th October. :D  (possibly longer we will see)

How long a drive form melb, Ill most likely fly

cool, looking forward to hearing how it all turns out.

Got my injectors back today, had them cleaned and tested, and all is good. Lucky, as one was quite blocked, they were all blocked a little, as they picked up 13% more flow after cleaning them

Just have to get some time to wire in the resistor pack and get it all running

Will definatly catch up for a beer when you are over, I think its about 8-9hrs city to city drive

Chris

If anyone has any diagrams and such, no matter how rough, anything would be appreciated

Chris

yeah i have the wiring diag. with the RB26 and RB20 on the same page.

RB26 ones are at the TOP MIDDLE of the page.

RB20 ones are at the LEFT MIDDLE of the page.

RB20 & RB26 part wiring diag.

I got the car tuned and the GTR injectors work perfect,so perfect it's like I still have RB20 one's.

Another bonus is the injectors are at 44% duty cycle in second bouncing off the limiter where with the RB20 one's they hit 100% around 6000rpm LOL.

  • 3 weeks later...

Quick question to you all -

I have had a few delays and haven't had chance to get them in as of yet.

A few questions, excuse me if they sound a bit dumb!!

This is my plan so far -

1) Remove crossover pipe, and all vacuum lines that are needed to take the top half of the plenum off

2) Remove top half of the plenum. How hard is this to do? Do you need a new gasket to put it back on?

3) After thats removed, I should have easy acess to the injectors. Remove the tape going to the injectors so I can locate the power wire.

4) Trace these wires from the injectors back to where they branch off into 6 individual power wires from one power wire

5) Wire in and solder the power wire on the resistor pack to the power wire I have just located. Is there any way to tell if its the power wire by testing it with a multimeter etc?

6) Solder each power wire to the injector resistor pack. Can you solder any injector wire to the resistor pack? I think you can, as its just a constant power wire isn't it?

7) Wiring complete

8) Undo the bolts holding the fuel rail to the head

9) Remove rail and injectors. Will the injectors come out easily and in one piece with the fuel rail. If not how do i remove them?

10) Replace the RB20 injectors with the GTR injectors

11) Re-install fuel rail and injectors. Is this a easy task? What are the do's and don'ts?

12) Plug back on the injector plugs and make sure everything is done up tight etc. Can you test wether the injectors are leaking or not fitting well at this stage?

13) Plenum back on

14) all other crap back on

15) Start the car and see if it all works?

What do you guys reckon?

Chris

Hey guys,

I was under the impression an AP engineering PFC will work with low impedance injectors?? well this is stated on the greenline website?? Is this write or wrong?

George

It needs the same resistance as the stock RB20 injectors, which are High Impedence. Greenline website dude must have gotton confused! Thats why if you want to run low impedence GTR injectors, you must fit a resisitor pack so the ecu doesn't bugger up due to the differance in resistance, whats this whole thread is about :(

2) Remove top half of the plenum. How hard is this to do? Do you need a new gasket to put it back on?

Stick with removing the throttle body, that will give you all the room you need...hell i didnt even do that as i didnt have the right size allen key. So it can even be done with top half of manifold and throttle body in place if you like pain.

3) After thats removed, I should have easy acess to the injectors. Remove the tape going to the injectors so I can locate the power wire.

Yeh just remove the tape /shrink wrap, you will have plenty of access

4) Trace these wires from the injectors back to where they branch off into 6 individual power wires from one power wire

Correct

5) Wire in and solder the power wire on the resistor pack to the power wire I have just located. Is there any way to tell if its the power wire by testing it with a multimeter etc?

6) Solder each power wire to the injector resistor pack. Can you solder any injector wire to the resistor pack? I think you can, as its just a constant power wire isn't it?

7) Wiring complete

8) Undo the bolts holding the fuel rail to the head

9) Remove rail and injectors. Will the injectors come out easily and in one piece with the fuel rail. If not how do i remove them?

10) Replace the RB20 injectors with the GTR injectors

11) Re-install fuel rail and injectors. Is this a easy task? What are the do's and don'ts?

12) Plug back on the injector plugs and make sure everything is done up tight etc. Can you test wether the injectors are leaking or not fitting well at this stage?

13) Plenum back on

14) all other crap back on

15) Start the car and see if it all works?

What do you guys reckon?

Actaully too hard, drinks over the engine bay tonight? :(

2) Remove top half of the plenum. How hard is this to do? Do you need a new gasket to put it back on?

Stick with removing the throttle body, that will give you all the room you need...hell i didnt even do that as i didnt have the right size allen key.  So it can even be done with top half of manifold and throttle body in place if you like pain.

3) After thats removed, I should have easy acess to the injectors. Remove the tape going to the injectors so I can locate the power wire.

Yeh just remove the tape /shrink wrap, you will have plenty of access

4) Trace these wires from the injectors back to where they branch off into 6 individual power wires from one power wire

Correct

5) Wire in and solder the power wire on the resistor pack to the power wire I have just located. Is there any way to tell if its the power wire by testing it with a multimeter etc?

6) Solder each power wire to the injector resistor pack. Can you solder any injector wire to the resistor pack? I think you can, as its just a constant power wire isn't it?

7) Wiring complete

8) Undo the bolts holding the fuel rail to the head

9) Remove rail and injectors. Will the injectors come out easily and in one piece with the fuel rail. If not how do i remove them?

10) Replace the RB20 injectors with the GTR injectors

11) Re-install fuel rail and injectors. Is this a easy task? What are the do's and don'ts?

12) Plug back on the injector plugs and make sure everything is done up tight etc. Can you test wether the injectors are leaking or not fitting well at this stage?

13) Plenum back on

14) all other crap back on

15) Start the car and see if it all works?

What do you guys reckon?

Actaully too hard, drinks over the engine bay tonight? :(

Sure mate :) , I rang you before but went to message bank, will call again in about 15

So what I have listed , minus the top half of the plnum removal, is about right?

Chris

Injectors will come out with electrical plugs still attached, and the injector loom all still attached and on/in the fuel rail...just trace the injectors plugs back to the big plug and unplug it. Then undo the 2 x 12mm bolts holding the fuel rail onto the lower half of the plenum and rock / tease the rail up and back to remove it from the lower plenum...should have rail with injectors and plugs all still attached...with only undoing the 1 electrical plug and the 2 bolts :)

Removing the injectors may be a bit of a pain...ive heard their a bit of a head --- to get out. If it was me, id be taking the rail with the new injectors and new o-rings to a shop to get them to fit em...peace of mind that they shouldnt leak...

reinstalling the lot is a piece of pi** :) get new rubbers that the nozzle ends sit into, and push em into the injector holes, or on the end of the injectors....check which is better...push injectors into openings....bolt holes on rail should sit where the rail bolts in if its gone in ok..make sure lower rubbers are still ok, then put in 2 x 12mm bolts...

I think when you turn the key it should prime the fuel system, so wait till you hear the pump stop, then kick over....?? Oh yer...adjust Power fc sttting too...lol...or just get someone to start and tune as necessary...

:)

I mananged to catch up with Roy last night and have a look/drive of his car, very nice setup

I am confident with what I have picked up that this shouldn't pose to much of a drama, might even give it a go this weekend if I can drag myself away from watching Bathurst :)

Big thanks to Roy for sharing some of his knowledge :)

Cheers for all the input guys, it has made my mind rest a little from what I have been able to pick up

Roy and R31 POWER, can you have a look at your fuel and ignition map ( Roy and I had a look at his last night but we ran out of time) and see if they are similar in the injection table to the ones I have attached - these are the maps in my PFC at the moment

When I plugged my PFC in it seemed to run heaps lean, I think the tune it has is for increased fuel pressure or bigger injectors

Fingers crossed i get time to do it this weekend

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...