Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good to hear Chris,Roys a top bloke and he helped me out heaps :D

Where the power wire branches out it's right under the throttle body.

I will also put up my maps maybe even tonight or on the weekend.

One thing I learnt yesterday is check your plenum bolts coz I had one missing and god knows for how long.I put another bolt in and now it spools up so quick like 500rpm quick.I would get 11psi at 4000rpm in second before and now get 11psi at 3500rpm,so much better to drive.

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well, on saturday morning ( I had a few hours to kill before going to a wedding LOL!) I had a look at my spare motor to see if I could locate the power wire going to the injectors

As it was a spare, it was all done for a bit of practice, next weekend hopefully I can get it all done

Took me about half a hour to get everything off and I found the wire no probs. On mine I traced it from the injectors back up the loom, and it branced off into four, with one wire going down and branching of to three to feed the foward 3 injectors

I tested my resistor pack, and it measured 6 ohms on each wire, so looks to be good.

How did you guys get the plugs of the injectors? Being a spare motor I tried a few things and the only way I could get them of was by pulling that retaing spring wire thing off but I kept on breaking the little plastic bits off that held that spring in place!! Hopefully there is a better way than what I was doing!

All seemed pretty straight forward though, to get the fuel rail out I had to pull the back two injectors out of the rail, as they would foul on a hose going to the plenum

Another thing, after taking the throttle body and the AAC valve assembly off the gaskets where buggerd, chances are it will happen when I do it to the motor in the car it will tear them too, can I use gasket paper and make some replacemnets up or are gaskets available from Nissan as a spare part?

Other than that, all seems to be not to hard at all

How do my maps I have compare to everyone elses?

Chris

i used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the injector plug clips...they came off with no hassles...

I replaced my throttle body gasket and aac valve gasket on mine (i had every gasket replaced on my new motor etc.) as every one of em is at least 12 years old....go the Nissan genuine 'cos their cheap, and not worth replacing later if they leak :rofl:

Sorry, worked Saturday, and slept most of Sunady after the drive back to Vic. Ill have a look at the Maps later this week and post up before sat morning, though my map will only be good for up to 2500rpm then our turbo characteristics are likely to be very different

No probs mate, I have ordered my gaskets for the throttle body and AAC valve, they should be in today

I have a feeling that my map is for bigger injectors but I will wait to do a quick comparison first. If you guys don't want to post them up you can PM them to me if you want

When I get my car tuned I will post up the final map for comparison's sake. I punched in all the numbers into a Excel spreadsheet BOOSTD made up, it all looks to be pretty good, with no big holes or dips in the fuel map

Is there a option in the PowerFC to adjust the injector scaling? What I was thinking is if the tune is no good in my car to get me around for a few days before I get it tuned, I could always load the standard map and reduce the overall fuel map by 63% (280 v 440cc injectors, please correct me if I am wrong??) and it should be drivable at least, allthough it wouldn't be seeing any sort of boost before it hits the dyno!!

Chris

Roy has a PowerFC

Got all my gaskets and crap just then, so looks like this weekend I should get it all done. Also picked up a boost control kit for the PFC as well :D

Just need to find out if my maps are suitable now or if they are no good, if not I will do as I said in my previous post and default the PFC and use the injector scaling function to drop back the amount of fuel, either way it should work............

Chris

Ah ok, thanx. I just read the whole post and there was a post from him from Feb saying he's using rb20 ECU. Must've upgraded since then. Would RB26 injectors work on the RB20 ECU or does it need to be re-mapped?

It would need to be re-mapped, as they are a much larger flowing injector

Hey Chris,

this might be a stupid question, what does the pfc value represent, is it load?? or am i confused???

Also on the fuel map, is 136 the largest number u can go (most amount of flow?). This would have to be changed when larger injectors are fitted or is that where injector correction comes into it?

I'm trying to understand how these things work.

Cheers

Hey Chris,  

this might be a stupid question, what does the pfc value represent, is it load?? or am i confused???

Also on the fuel map, is 136 the largest number u can go (most amount of flow?). This would have to be changed when larger injectors are fitted or is that where injector correction comes into it?  

I'm trying to understand how these things work.

Cheers

As far as I can work out - the PFC Value part is refering to the location of the point of the map, from 1-20, so I am pretty sure its load. I didn't come up with the chart, so I cannot be sure, I just punched in my numbers I had copied of my PFC

136 isn't the biggest number you can go, but I am not sure what it goes up to as I haven't played around with it much. The map that was in there before mine was from BOOSTD's R33, which was running standard injectors and had numbers well over 1000 entered in, but I will add that the fuel map looks pretty average to me, but I am no expert

I am trying to find a english manual so I can work out all the functions in the hand controller

Chris

Chris

Looking forward to seeing this result... just went and got me a set of gtr injectors :D

I am going to be taking alot of pictures so in the future if someone wants to do the same it will be pretty straight forward

Don't forget to get the resistor pack!

Chris

so is it right to say that your tune is more for response compared to boostd which was more for top end???? This is what i'm gathering from comparing the two or its not a fair comparison (rb20 vs rb25)????

This is pretty interesting!!

so is it right to say that your tune is more for response compared to boostd which was more for top end???? This is what i'm gathering from comparing the two or its not a fair comparison (rb20 vs rb25)????

This is pretty interesting!!

I have no idea whats mines tuned for, I plugged it in, it started, I turned it off.

I copied the maps from it and that was it, my car is currently running on the stock (chipped) ecu

It will be interesting to compare it with what Roy and R31POWER's maps are like, especially the differant fuel maps

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Me, I would happly spend some more coin on better tyres for my street car  Will they work, yes, of course, but why substitute some dry grip/braking distance, and wet weather grip/braking distance on what is really old tech to save some coin on your "precious" street car In the end it might not be you that farks up, it's the thousands of other idiots on the street that you need to worry about  For a street car that gets some "fun time", I have found that a quality tyre that can handle dry, wet, cold (Canberra gets pretty cold) and hot conditions, which may costs a little more, is great insurance  From my experience with them (driving around Goulburn in the winter) the RE003's are pretty poor in cold and/or wet conditions on the street If RS4's didn't hate gripping in the cold I would be running them always on the street,  great in the dry, OK in the wet, but, they do hate the cold, with a passion, I run PS5's year round now, basically, I've found the PS5 to be a great year round street tyre for all conditions, they last well, and are mid range pricing wise TL;DR. Tyre choice is probably like what brand and grade oil you should use, ask 10 people, and get 10 different answers... LOL
    • Extend the sensor out of the car, put it in a pot of oil, heat oil up. You'll get to 80-120 then 馃槢
    • Yeah - I tried throwing the formulas from ChatGPT and it tried it's best as it told me that the Formula in HPTuners as requested is a Linear function, but the original data I provided it (resistance to temp) is not linear and thus it kept trying to suggest formulas that would be more accurate in regions I actually want it to be accurate in. But I didn't quite understand it at the time. I have now thrown the data into graphs and can clearly see they're all different shapes. Given it's an oil temp sensor I probably want it to be most accurate between 80 and 120c - So I don't really see much alternative other than driving the hell out of the car and letting it cool down from 120C, noting the voltage on the sensor as it chills out. But at that point if I write it down, well, I'll be able to know this from the voltage. Would look pretty stupid on a datalog or a video showing me going down the straight at 0.265V Oil temp 
    • Yeah, it looks like it's being ran as a constant current setup is my guess. Get some more data points, reading the degrees C on the gauge, and what the voltage is you're seeing out of it. The sensor itself is not linear, even in smaller ranges of like 20 - 60 it's non linear. But if we can get some good plots, particularly at those 5volt steps, it will be very easy to work out, and then I can give you a logarithmic formula if its you need an actual formula. Also, very likely ChatGPT will lead you astray with some of this stuff, as it totally depends on how the circuit is built.
    • So to further complicate things or hopefully explain better: This is a VDO sensor. It clearly does this math inside the gauge itself... because it displays a temperature in C to me instead of a voltage. The signal wire to the gauge is in Volts, not Ohms. I have just teed into this and sent it to the ECU. ChatGPT spat this out: Temperature (脗掳C) Thermistor Resistance (脦漏) Voltage Output (V) -40 36563.56 4.973962698 -35 26284.63 4.963854097 -30 19149 4.950518086 -25 14127.68 4.933166097 -20 10504.68 4.910527969 -15 7721.35 4.879055954 -10 5720.88 4.838133512 -5 4284.03 4.786165799 0 3240.18 4.721119717 5 2473.6 4.640900563 10 1905.87 4.543692515 15 1486.65 4.429695182 20 1168.64 4.296344225 25 926.71 4.144091368 30 739.98 3.972492431 35 594.9 3.782907287 40 481.53 3.577860996 45 392.57 3.361217186 50 322.17 3.136573398 55 266.19 2.908608143 60 221.17 2.68039363 65 184.72 2.455599277 70 155.29 2.239608872 75 131.38 2.035132288 80 112.08 1.846579676 85 96.4 1.674774149 90 82.96 1.511882199 95 71.44 1.359001674 100 61.92 1.222169588 105 54.01 1.100403407 110 47.24 0.989775394 115 41.42 0.889528391 120 36.51 0.800974069 125 32.38 0.723478416 130 28.81 0.654148313 135 25.7 0.591893137 140 23 0.536380597 145 20.68 0.487551867 150 18.59 0.442640126 155 16.74 0.40213318 160 15.11 0.365841848 165 13.66 0.333073247 170 12.38 0.303758956 175 11.25 0.277572169 180 10.24 0.253917873
  • Create New...