Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well you rock up to a test, they see a 3.5"/4" outlet - you think they aint gonna suspect something is up? :devil:

I had the guy get under my car when my 3.5" exhaust pulled as low as it did, just to check for that type of thing.

I had one on my old R33, the difference was amazing. From a headache inducing drone to quieter than my friend's Excel. The benefit is not that it will pass an EPA, its that whenever you see cops, get pulled over, or simply don't want to annoy the neighbours you can mute it instantly from a button on your keyring. It prevents you getting EPAs in the first place, rather than assist you in passing them.

I was so impressed with it I bought another for the Supra, but never wired it up as my current exhaust set up isn't that loud in the low revs.

I've got one and the only reason i got it was i cbf with headaches sometimes from my exhaust /drone as said above by Kez but also i have very good neighbours who all respect each other and id like to be quiet when i come home numerous times in the early morning with my car.. :banana:

EPA's are less of a headache as u get pulled over and they check to see if ur cars loud and they notice its dead quiet. just gives you less headache.

This video here is my old car, and a video I filmed and uploaded personally. Who knew it would hit 170,000 views. I doubt the valve would cause much of a restriction unless you were already pushing the limits with your exhaust diameter.

As for the noise, I reckon the sound fine. I've had a ton of complements on my Supra's exhaust note and it has a Varex. IMO its everything before the muffler that gives an exhaust a nice note or not, depending on your turbo/extractors, mid mufflers, cat, resonator, pipe size, material etc. You can also get different muffler shapes and tips too, next time I think I'll just get the twin tip for an even more stealth appearance.

I know I sound like a bloody Varex salesmen, but to be honest they really are that good. Well worth the money and the main reason it was the first mod I bought for my Supra.

They're great at what they do, you don't buy it to have the best sounding exhaust, you buy it to have the best of both worlds. Personally, I love the note, it's deep down low and up top is a real screamer. I think it's important that the rest of the exhaust is done properly or it will sound tinny and crap, but that's like any exhaust. Run 3 inch mandrel mild steel from the turbo back and you'll be sweet...come listen if you like.

This video here is my old car, and a video I filmed and uploaded personally. Who knew it would hit 170,000 views. I doubt the valve would cause much of a restriction unless you were already pushing the limits with your exhaust diameter.

As for the noise, I reckon the sound fine. I've had a ton of complements on my Supra's exhaust note and it has a Varex. IMO its everything before the muffler that gives an exhaust a nice note or not, depending on your turbo/extractors, mid mufflers, cat, resonator, pipe size, material etc. You can also get different muffler shapes and tips too, next time I think I'll just get the twin tip for an even more stealth appearance.

I know I sound like a bloody Varex salesmen, but to be honest they really are that good. Well worth the money and the main reason it was the first mod I bought for my Supra.

If all the varex mufflers are like that its not worth it since its got a restrictor welded in there thats why the hole is so small. I just removed one out of my cannon. So even when its fully open you still got a restrictor there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...