Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My rear window washer isn't working and I want to fix it so I've had a closer look at it. The motor on the front washer bottle for the rear is working. I put a shorter hose on it and it shoots water out. I figured that maybe the jet bit on the rear window was blocked. I disconnected the hose that goes to it and tried to shoot the rear window washer, but nothing came out. This tells me that maybe there is a kink in the hose from the front bottle to the rear of the car, or a split; something that isn't allowing the water to get to the rear washer jet.

Does anybody know where the hose travels, front to rear? Are there any common problems etc?

Any help or ideas to get this fixed would be great!

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343389-fixing-rear-window-washer/
Share on other sites

would be helpful to know car model... i'm going to assume R33 (because thats what i have/ know)

but on the R33's the tube runs down the drivers side of the car then up the side of the rear seat, under the rear parcel tray and to the nozzle.

One thing to check (was an issue with mine) was that near the end of the line at the back, under the parcel tray was a little 1-way valve (so that you didn't have to pump water along the whole tube every time). this had perished and cracked for me hence why mine wasn't working. i just removed it and taped the tubes back together and it seems to work fine enough for me now.

i.ve got a problem with mine that if im on a hill with the bonnet higher then the boot it just drips untill the water runs out! i know is gravity but how do i fix it?

yeah, +1 for broken hose somewhere.

with the issue i described before, the way i found out was exactly like that, went outside to find my car taking a leak :P

i would check the place i mentioned first, just under the parcel tray/ shelf.

yeah, +1 for broken hose somewhere.

with the issue i described before, the way i found out was exactly like that, went outside to find my car taking a leak :P

i would check the place i mentioned first, just under the parcel tray/ shelf.

its actually coming out of the washer jet but only when im on a hill facing up hill

My car does this too, whenever I leave it on a hill all the water drains out, also when I stick the boot in, the water pushes back and out the water spray half way up the rear windscreen, not that big an issue but im worried that over time it may cause rust around the boot seal. Would love to know if there is a common cause for this before I start ripping everything apart.

check that one way valve that i have mentioned before.

in theory even though the water is flowing in the direction it is supposed to, that valve would put up some resistance (which is overcome when the water has the extra force provided by the pump)

that or someone has taken the 1-way valve out, because after i removed mine i noticed when i hit high boost my car wets its self :P

well, there is something in common between the R32 GT-R and R33 S1 sedan at least then, who would have thought :blush:

one day i might bother seeing about a new one way valve, but as i said it's been working ok without one.

Just makes a little squirt when i hit high boost and she gets excited.... oh right, we are supposed to be talking about cars >.>

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...