Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh dear...

while i commend you and wish you well on your searches... you've made a huge mistake by starting this thread... i pray the wasteland dwellers don't get hold of this one..

engine out.

then again,i do like the z32s.

yeah sorry man i wasn't mocking you - as xalmon said, there's a certain catch cry that's started this year regards to the Z32..

while you DO have an interesting taste in cars (hell i actually LOVE the way the Z32 is styled.. like a hideously ugly 1980's tom selleck moustache having tryhard quirky ferrari that gets driven up n down miami vice cop shows.... yet still manages to look god damn awesome)

Magnum-P.I.-and-his-Ferra-001.jpg

3537006767_6a9a57d025_o.jpg

this is ripped off the J-spec wiki... while this is not ENTIRELY true as kristian said, there IS a small small window there... it's.... really really difficult to find..

For 2 seater versions, 1989 to December 1997 models are eligible for import. For 2+2 versions, only October 1996 to December 1997 models are eligible for import.

i'd say not bother unfortunately.. save up your cash a few more months n get a Z33 :(

3107817232_bb94b6c11c_b.jpg

i actually prefer the 300zx over a 350z. ive always liked em and the only thing thats put me off is age hence why i'm looking at the latest model ones (ive only just recently discovered that they went up to 2000/2001)

if its too much of a hassle getting one imported then might aswell forget about it. like i said it was just a thought

what does a 97 2+2 twin turbo usually cost landed/complied?

thanks

speak to Ben from J-Spec imports if you are interested in bringing in a Z32. He was one of the guys who started the aus300zx forums so he knows them pretty well.

as already posted, '98-'00 can't be imported (besides private imports) but there are a few in the country already but you rarely see them coming up for sale.

there are a few '95 TTs for about 15-16k at the moment on carsales and there aren't too many differences that I can think of between the '95 and '97 model.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...