Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh dear...

while i commend you and wish you well on your searches... you've made a huge mistake by starting this thread... i pray the wasteland dwellers don't get hold of this one..

engine out.

then again,i do like the z32s.

yeah sorry man i wasn't mocking you - as xalmon said, there's a certain catch cry that's started this year regards to the Z32..

while you DO have an interesting taste in cars (hell i actually LOVE the way the Z32 is styled.. like a hideously ugly 1980's tom selleck moustache having tryhard quirky ferrari that gets driven up n down miami vice cop shows.... yet still manages to look god damn awesome)

Magnum-P.I.-and-his-Ferra-001.jpg

3537006767_6a9a57d025_o.jpg

this is ripped off the J-spec wiki... while this is not ENTIRELY true as kristian said, there IS a small small window there... it's.... really really difficult to find..

For 2 seater versions, 1989 to December 1997 models are eligible for import. For 2+2 versions, only October 1996 to December 1997 models are eligible for import.

i'd say not bother unfortunately.. save up your cash a few more months n get a Z33 :(

3107817232_bb94b6c11c_b.jpg

i actually prefer the 300zx over a 350z. ive always liked em and the only thing thats put me off is age hence why i'm looking at the latest model ones (ive only just recently discovered that they went up to 2000/2001)

if its too much of a hassle getting one imported then might aswell forget about it. like i said it was just a thought

what does a 97 2+2 twin turbo usually cost landed/complied?

thanks

speak to Ben from J-Spec imports if you are interested in bringing in a Z32. He was one of the guys who started the aus300zx forums so he knows them pretty well.

as already posted, '98-'00 can't be imported (besides private imports) but there are a few in the country already but you rarely see them coming up for sale.

there are a few '95 TTs for about 15-16k at the moment on carsales and there aren't too many differences that I can think of between the '95 and '97 model.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...