Stroking Rb26 To 2.7 Or 2.8

[260rsstagea]

hey everyone

i am looking at building an engine for my 260rs stagea and using a 1.0 T04z and was wondering what a stroked engine will give me over keeping the engine 2.6? will it give more torque/power low down? more overall power? change when the turbo spools up?

any information would be greatly appreciated

cheers

daniel

[marksuxass]

hey everyone

i am looking at building an engine for my 260rs stagea and using a 1.0 T04z and was wondering what a stroked engine will give me over keeping the engine 2.6? will it give more torque/power low down? more overall power? change when the turbo spools up?

any information would be greatly appreciated

cheers

daniel

basically just more low down torque, power figures maybe increased a little and yes turbo will possibly spool quicker depending on cams

[R31Nismoid]

Search this users posts: “Gav”

He went from a 2.6ltr to a 2.8ltr I believe with either large twins or a big single – the increase in response over the entire rev range was excellent. I don't believe cams were changed either (but have a search, he posted some great info)

Peak power I believe didn’t really change that much overall, but thats not the point of a stroker.

Either way with a 1.0 housing on a T04Z you’ll need every bit of help you can get as IMO it’s a poor choice of turbo and rear housing.

There are certainly better combinations out there I would imagine.

What is the goal/use of the car?

Also the budget??

What parts currently do you have on the car?

Going a 2.8ltr isn’t exactly a cheap option, but the gains are there without question.

Remember if it spins a bearing and makes a mince of the crank – 3-4k instantly to get a new crank

[260rsstagea]

current mods:

t517z turbos

264 greddy cams

trust front/dump pipes

trust PEII cat back exhaust

trust 720cc injectors

power fc d-jetro

os giken twin plate

basically i wana build the ultimate stagea in all aspects power, looks, interior the complete package and wana make 600 hp+ at least to make the wagon really quick due to its weight, it will be a show then street car. the budget i have is approx. 40k for engine.

[TiTAN]

so why limit it to 2.7l or 2.8l? get RIPS to build you an RB30 3.3l or 3.4l engine.

[R31Nismoid]

40k for a motor?

Jesus. If thats the case - as per above. Just fork out for a RIPS super banger.

I think they are a bit shy of 40k, and with good reason as you'll be needing some gearbox attention

[unique1]

well ive basically had what you are after 2.7L stroker, t04z (0.81) and in a stagea, it was pretty reasonable response but didnt have it on a 2.6l to compare. Just go the 3L i reckon and get a 4wd adaptor plate, u could build 2 of those engines for the price of one 2.8l stroker. You lose abit of revs but make up for it in response and the 1.0 housing will be laggy, i dont know what you want to do with the car but street drivin with a t04z on a 2.6L i would say is a waste, its too laggy for any smaller track work and pretty much save for that dogbox (10-15k alone) because the stocker wont last.

edit... 40k wont go as far as you think either with bolt ons etc as well, the head will need a fair bit of work to get the most out of it. a built head with all the fruit is around 12k worth on its own with cams and valve gear complete and about 25k+ for the long motor without any bolt ons, 12k+ for the dogbox and thats 37k right there.

Edited November 8, 2010 by unique1

[260rsstagea]

sorry if sounds dumb but who is RIPS oh yeah and 40k is for everything head,block, turbo, etc. and fitted drive away

Edited November 8, 2010 by 260rsstagea

[mattyneweraimports]

sorry if sounds dumb but who is RIPS

Engine builder in NZ, specialist in RB30s

[poobah]

i'd go rb30/26...way cheaper..and more reliable too.IMO

[tricstar]

yeah as above, if $40k is your drive in drive out budget, I don't think you'll cut it, I bought a car with a 2.8L and big single and guy gave me receipts for $50+ including a second hand OS gear set which you will need at least. It now has a TO4Z .84 which I think would be a better size, not too much lag.

Having seen the RIPS packages and the dollar, you should have a good look over there.

good luck

[mattyneweraimports]

yeah as above, if $40k is your drive in drive out budget, I don't think you'll cut it, I bought a car with a 2.8L and big single and guy gave me receipts for $50+ including a second hand OS gear set which you will need at least. It now has a TO4Z .84 which I think would be a better size, not too much lag.

Having seen the RIPS packages and the dollar, you should have a good look over there.

good luck

thats a good price

this is my friends Top Secret built stroked RB

with a HKS TO4Z

went like stink down the TOMEI expressway when i went out in it

little vid he put on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/user/hyrev#p/u/9/lUXSjlfdCC8

[stricnynel0s]

thats a good price

this is my friends Top Secret built stroked RB

with a HKS TO4Z

went like stink down the TOMEI expressway when i went out in it

little vid he put on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/user/hyrev#p/u/9/lUXSjlfdCC8

i have 2.7 stroker on my rb25, i jused rb26 crank, and after market 26 rods, and 88mm wiesco pistons. with vct and slightly higher compression its not too shabby, i raced my buddys rb30 (from RIPS) and man that thing had torque, but i wasnt tuned for the meth i was spraying so that was a factor too lol, i have a holset hx35 and it spools decent enough.

[discopotato03]

My vote goes to a mild street RB30 , IMO GTR's really need 3L and a Stag is heavier again . The old adage was that cubic inches make the easiest horses (ft/lbs actually) .

Turbo type FI doesn't do much for you at very low revs but having a bigger air pump (engine) sure does .

I think eventually everyone gets pissed off with peaky engines that have to be revved to make decent grunt .

I also think if you put together an RB30 with slightly better rods and pistons you can have a torquey responsive engine that doesn't owe you anything like 40 grand .

I'd be following the progress with these new BW turbos because there is the potential to track down a HKS single cast low mount exhaust manifold and mount a T4 flanged IW turbo on that . If it was done properly it wouldn't look too lethal to the authorities nor out of place in a Stag engine bay .

Even a GT3582R on a SS T3 flanged manifold wouldn't be too foul , if you option it with the Garrett port shrouded compressor housing it wouldn't give anything away to a generic T04Z until the top end .

My guess is that with 3L you wouldn't have to rev it much to make it go and its still questionable if the gearbox can stand up to that .

Your call but power beyond reliability doesn't make a whole lot of sense .

My plan with a Stag (assumes healthy budget) would be to make it really punchy and torquey from not a lot of revs because thats what feels great on the street and wins if you like at sub Taser speed limits .

A .

[Rolls]

as nismoid said, buy a rips motor all done, you know it will work, less time wasted spent building it, they make amazing power and make it down low, they hold together and you can't go wrong.

if you pay someone else to do it there is no guarantee they won't f**k it up as a lot of places have slap dash warranty and if it breaks then you are shit outta luck, that and the 3L will make more power down low, they will pick a better turbo combination as well.

http://www.ripsracing.com/products.html $19k for their 900hp motor all done, all you need then is to spend the remaining 20k on driveline and making sure the rest of the car can handle it, could go a smaller turbo for your required 600hp and make it even more responsive.

Edited November 8, 2010 by Rolls

[Nee-san]

yeah as above, if $40k is your drive in drive out budget, I don't think you'll cut it, I bought a car with a 2.8L and big single and guy gave me receipts for $50+ including a second hand OS gear set which you will need at least. It now has a TO4Z .84 which I think would be a better size, not too much lag.

Having seen the RIPS packages and the dollar, you should have a good look over there.

good luck

Stageas are heavier then a GT-R so you will benefit greatly from the increased cubes.

There are places where you can literally buy a built bottom end RB30 for 5-6k all machined and forged, attach built 26 head and anywhere upto 1000hp is just a turbo choice away.

However it's only going to cost you 40k if you dump your car at a workshop and let them go for it cradle to grave, personally I'de prefer to do alot of it myself and just outsource the parts I cant or shouldn't do, but its not my car or money mate so goodluck whatever you do

Edited November 8, 2010 by Nee-san

[dirtyRS4]

RIPS RB33 FTMFW. Its all been covered by Duncan in the stag section. lol

Interesting to know oz's fastest RB30s still use sohc. Pm Brad and pintaline for more info.

Edited November 8, 2010 by dirtyRS4

[Rolls]

Less valvetrain overhead at high rpm maybe? Wouldn't think it would breathe as well but perhaps you can get more lift in the cams.

[Nee-san]

Less valvetrain overhead at high rpm maybe? Wouldn't think it would breathe as well but perhaps you can get more lift in the cams.

Yes valvetrain lighter, single valves cannot geometrically fulfill the same area as multiple valves can.

Do not let people convince you that just because the single cam heads are still faster in the VL's that this means that they are a better option then a twin cam head.

[Rolls]

Yeah at street power levels the extra valve train weight is more than made up for by extra valve area and the fact you have dual cams meaning less compromise with valve timing, however is it possible that at extreme rpm of 10-11k which some of these motors see that the extra valve train loss could become an issue, does anyone know if more or less lift can be achieved with single vs twin cam rbs?