Final Checks B4 I Turn The Key For 1st Time!

[chef_stagea]

hi all...

as many of you know i smashed up my engine pretty good few months back...

well ive had 3 days of solid pumping and have finally dropped it in, and hooked it all back up....

final checks are now the only thing b4 i turn it on....

-given harmonic balancer a few turns.... WITH A BELT...just for good luck

-fuel has been siphoned out, and will be replaced with fresh stuff

-fuel will be primmed a few times...

-double triple checked all bolts and just a general roll around above and under the car...

-reset EBC as the turbo has been upgraded....

whats the story with getting coolant into the heater core... i have no gas in my system atm... so how do i go about bleeding the cooling system?

one thing im not happy with is theres a grounding/signal port just infront of where the oil filter clips in... it may have been on my auto loom thats now gone... but i cannot find a plug ANY where for it... and wtf is it :S

[StealthX]

Just mash the key bro! It won't be that much of an issue... It'll either start or it won't! That's how you'll figure out what's right or wrong.

Maybe unclip the injectors and crank a few times to prime oil pressure, and double check all the harness connectors.

As for coolant system, I don't have much experience with RBs, but maybe try to run the engine (when it starts) with the rad cap off to bleed all the air out of the system, that worked for every car I've had in the past...

That's a tidy workshop area you got there, jealous!

[chef_stagea]

ok so it didnt start...

-i have air.... afms all good, cooler likes are all good

-has fuel... (pulled the inlet hose off, and had ALOT of pressure...)

-has spark... new plugs, and new coilpacks... has ran when i originally cained the engine

im led to belive its a timing issue...

how do i exactly reset the timing?

ive lined the cas up to the center of the adjustments,

do i need to line the crank up to TDC? or like anything more up?

or is it just a matter of getting a timing light and working it out... what damage can be done here tho??

cheers guys

Edited November 9, 2010 by chef_stagea

[mr manfringinsen]

The ignition timing shouldn't stop the car from running. If you need to time it, find the loop of white wire coming out of the loom at the back of the head. Put the timing light trigger on it and aim the timing light at the timing marks on your harmonic balancer. +0-5-10-15-20 degrees from left to right from memory. Adjust the CAS to 15 or 20 degrees. This will at least test that the coils are trying to trigger a spark.

[chef_stagea]

hm... i just think that its firing when a set of valves is open or somthing... could hear the smallest of pops out of the exhaust if you really put your ear up to it...

what would stop it from firing then... hmmm??

[Daleo]

ok so it didnt start...

-i have air.... afms all good, cooler likes are all good Good, re-checked ALL plugs to make sure you haven't missed one?.

-has fuel... (pulled the inlet hose off, and had ALOT of pressure...) Just because there's pressure in the line, doesn't mean the injectors are opening.

-has spark... new plugs, and new coilpacks... has ran when i originally cained the engine Just because they worked before you pulled them off, doesn't mean you can eliminate them without checking. Have you pulled a plug to check them? are they wet? If so, you can then eliminate fuel.

Not being a smartarse, but I've been caught out by some really simple things, easy to do when you've done such a big job.

Might be time to get out the multimeter & delve a bit deeper. Or get a mate to go through it with you, sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is all it takes.

Good luck.

Edited November 9, 2010 by Daleo

[chef_stagea]

^^ yeah true that i no what u mean.

whats a way to check that the injectors are opening? or what would cause them not to?

[Daleo]

I was lucky, one of my mates had "noid lights" you just plug it in to the injector plug & it lights an led.

Can you probe the connector with a test light or a continuity tester (my multimeter has a setting where you get an audible beep when you have current across the leads)?

Edited November 9, 2010 by Daleo

[DaveB]

for fuel problems u could always try some 'start-ya-bastard'

[DaveB]

hm... i just think that its firing when a set of valves is open or somthing... could hear the smallest of pops out of the exhaust if you really put your ear up to it...

what would stop it from firing then... hmmm??

u could just be hearing compression

[kidafa]

Im thinking its fuel related as the car was cranked over for 5/10 sec bursts a number of times and when the plugs were pulled no sign of fuel?

[QWK32]

Its hard to diagnose issue over the forum when it was an engine out job like this, too many things were unplugged/replaced/upgraded. Though I can think of a couple things you can check if you haven't already done so,

- Fuel lines on the right way? ie. Pump -> filter -> fuel damper -> rail/injectors -> fuel pressure reg -> another damper -> tank return.

- If the fuel system was empty it may take a little bit to prime all the lines, how long did you crank it for?

- did you upgrade to a Z32 afm? If so was it setup in you ecu.

[KiwiRS4T]

I presume you have the valve timing right - this was the original problem after all! If necessary re-read SK's how to under "cam gear" in the DIY section. You can pull out a plug and observe it while turning the engine over. You can remove the CAS and turn it by hand and listen for the injectors clicking...just a coup[le of thoughts. You should have the heater on full to promote circulation and get rid of the air in the system.

[chef_stagea]

Fuel lines are in place correctly, should there have been SO much pressure in the fuel line after its been cranking over that it sprayed EVERY were when loosened? Obviously a fair bit but it seemed like stacks!

I wasnt hearing injectors clicking yesterday but then again would you whike its cranking over??

Is it possable that the ignition timimgs so out that its ie spraying fuel when the exhaust was open? Maybe this explaines the huge fuel pressure??

I presume you have the valve timing right - this was the original problem after all! If necessary re-read SK's how to under "cam gear" in the DIY section. You can pull out a plug and observe it while turning the engine over. You can remove the CAS and turn it by hand and listen for the injectors clicking...just a coup[le of thoughts. You should have the heater on full to promote circulation and get rid of the air in the system.

[kidafa]

Dont think you'd hear the injector cycles over the cranking of the engine and starter motor.

Going to be a little prick to troubleshoot with rebuilt engine and changed of: coil packs, turbo, nisstune. Where to start?

[chef_stagea]

well providing the turbo is on properly... it wouldnt affect it starting...

the nisstune is new... there-for its as stock untill altered.

coilpacks have been used to run b4 on this engine...

how much pressure should be in the filter-engine fuel line? so much that with a slight wiggle it shot fuel every where?

i understand theres alot of pressure there.. but it hadnt been started..

can someone post up a pic of there FPR area on their s2... ill triple check my hoses in that area.

and is a fuel injected engine going to slighty wet the spark plug if its not firing like a 2 stroke/carbie engine

Edited November 9, 2010 by chef_stagea

[kidafa]

well providing the turbo is on properly... it wouldnt affect it starting...

True

the nisstune is new... there-for its as stock untill altered.

Should be running stock maps

coilpacks have been used to run b4 on this engine...

Ran for a second or 2 before it smashed itself? It may not even have been running as just the starter turning over would have done it. I'd change them with someones working ones just to rule them out as they are easy to get to.

[chef_stagea]

the valve wasnt broken while the engine was on, it was done via breaker bar...

it was already snapped off b4 i started it. the motor ran, just with bits in the affected cyl boar...

i need an answer as to weather the ignition timing can be so far out, that its shooting fuel while the intake valve is shut (causing the huge fuel pressure)

fuel cant get in to be shot out the exhaust valve with out it being ignited... this is where im led to believe my issue is for some reason.

as theres new rings in it... it wouldnt be so low on compession that it cant fire would it?... it would cough and splutter atleast yeah?

Edited November 9, 2010 by chef_stagea

[bentwagon]

Double check your timing to make sure its not set for the exhaust cycle and is in the compression cycle. I know I did that when fixing the head gasket in the Cressida last year, but if that hadnt happened, i wouldnt have a Stag today

[chef_stagea]

Double check your timing to make sure its not set for the exhaust cycle and is in the compression cycle. I know I did that when fixing the head gasket in the Cressida last year, but if that hadnt happened, i wouldnt have a Stag today

lol dont ask???

how do i check the firing sequence tho? and how do i set it up b4 it gets turned on??

almost tempting to chuck the bigger injectors and z32 on and send it down to be sorted lol...