Final Checks B4 I Turn The Key For 1st Time!

[bentwagon]

Speaking from the Cressida experience, set no.1 piston to top-dead-centre lining up markers on the cam gears making sure it was for the compression cycle, think i needed the cam covers off to check it was, then had to line up a marker on the dizzy to a mark on the block and that basicly got it all lined up. Not sure how nissan engines are set up though, best bet is a workshop manual on how to set timing.

[chef_stagea]

^^ sounds like this may be the drama...

i think lining up the red marker on the harmonic balancer (0 degrees) with the mark on the lower timing belt cover is TDC...

take the cas off while i do this. then line it back up once its at TDC?

[bentwagon]

This may help

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/96985-urgent-he...n-markings.html

[KiwiRS4T]

Here is SKs article again:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html

If you are not absolutely confident that you have the timing correct than please take it to a competent workshop if there is one in your city - you don't want to redo all the last few weeks' work.

[QWK32]

Yes the fuel lines will hold alot of pressure even when the car is off, there are check valves that do this so there is pressure at the injectors next time you start the car. I'll take a pics of my fuel lines when I get home this arvo, I'm running the stock setup.

It won't be the ignition timing if, all the cam gear and crank pulley marks lined up when you put the timing belt on, and the cas was installed correctly. Even if your cas is in the wrong position, retarded or advanced, the engine will still start. I wouldn't worry about the firing sequence as the NEO's coils and coilpack loom only fit in one way, it would be hard to mix them up.

The fuel injectors don't fire directly into the cylinder, they fire into the intake valve camber, so as long as the injectors fire, the fuel will get into the cylinder. it has nothing really to do with the exhaust cam and valves. An easy way to test the injectors and coils are firing is to remove the CAS, leave it plugged in, switch the ignition to "ON", and spin the CAS by hand, you will easily here the injectors tick and coils fire.

The nistune maps will be stock, but have you tested the ecu works? And are you running the stock AFM and injectors?

Edited November 10, 2010 by QWK32

[kidafa]

remove the CAS, leave it plugged in, switch the ignition to "ON", and spin the CAS by hand, you will easily here the injectors tick and coils fire.

Very good point.

The nistune maps will be stock, but have you tested the ecu works? And are you running the stock AFM and injectors?

At the moment to get it running he has got stock injectors and AFM yes, once its running they are coming out and bigger cc and z32 before its towed to tuner. Dont believe the ECU has been tested to check if it works or not.

[66yostagea]

If the fuel pump is working, and it does, and the fuel is going nowhere caus it spupts out, would this not indicate a problem with the fuel relief valve.???. Check and make sure none of your boost/vacuum lines are split or pinched off with say a zip tie.

I had a guy with a laptop check mine over last week, cost $80 at home. AFM, A/F ratio, spark, timing, injectors all checked out OK. I still have a prob somewhere but at least I know what is NOT wrong.

[chef_stagea]

The fuel pumps fine...

Ill give this injector and coil test a crack...

If the fuel pump is working, and it does, and the fuel is going nowhere caus it spupts out, would this not indicate a problem with the fuel relief valve.???. Check and make sure none of your boost/vacuum lines are split or pinched off with say a zip tie.

I had a guy with a laptop check mine over last week, cost $80 at home. AFM, A/F ratio, spark, timing, injectors all checked out OK. I still have a prob somewhere but at least I know what is NOT wrong.

[chef_stagea]

So might pay to rip the cam

Cover off and have a look... The 2 cam poimts will b lined up if the cranks on the red (0 degrees) marker yeah?? This will tell me if im a tooth out and if inj and coils are working at same time.

The ecu is my old 1 chipped. Unlikely its the issue but maybe worh ruleingout

The fuel pumps fine...

Ill give this injector and coil test a crack...

[QWK32]

So might pay to rip the cam

Cover off and have a look... The 2 cam poimts will b lined up if the cranks on the red (0 degrees) marker yeah?? This will tell me if im a tooth out and if inj and coils are working at same time.

The ecu is my old 1 chipped. Unlikely its the issue but maybe worh ruleingout

yeah, the cam marks will line up once every 2 turn of the crank. i.e 1 cam rotation = 2 crank rotations. don't worry about the markings on the belt, they only line up sometimes.

i also agree that its unlikely the ecu, its just an idea that as you say would be worth ruling out. i only mentioned it as i was thinking along the lines of the base image/map not being saved to the board after nistune was installed. probably very unlikely as anyone installing it would have checked it was all ok before giving it back to you.

removing the cas and spinning it manually will give you a good idea if the ecu is working anyway. if the injectors and coils fire then you know the ecu is getting the CAS signal processing it and telling them to fire.

[QWK32]

fuel line setup

Edited November 10, 2010 by QWK32

[-RBD2-]

Replace injectors,afm then tow that peice of shit to turbotune and get mike to figure it out

Ps- is Adam your mate chris?

[chef_stagea]

Replace injectors,afm then tow that peice of shit to turbotune and get mike to figure it out

Ps- is Adam your mate chris?

lol blow me...

seems my fuel lines are round the wrong way .... will report back

[chef_stagea]

so the car started... had a very big fuel leak at the rear injector,

.... gota take em out and have a play... im guessing just an o-ring drama...

y cant the rail be as easy to get to as an rb26

[66yostagea]

lol blow me...

seems my fuel lines are round the wrong way .... will report back

Was looking at that last night. WTF!!! Looked at the pics and thought "no one could do that, except me"

My fuel lines are actually arse about. Fuel comes in at the back and unloads at the front. This is a mod that was done with FFP.

Hope you are getting sorted.

[66yostagea]

FFP is the way to go for injector and plug/coil pack work. Easy as.

[chef_stagea]

ok so the cars running....

seems to be pretty good apart from a few things...

how much coolant should it take? i would no have around 9-10L in it i rekn

ive filled it up on level ground, ran it whit bleed nipple (manifold) off, and a funnel with a fair bit in it.

how ever it doesnt seem to want to come out the bleed nipple unless its turned off/turning off....

i can squeeze the thermostat hose and it will shoot up a little bit, but its only once its off that it shoots out as if it should...??

also the turbo wheel sounds to be spinning down once the cars turned off... its a hks 2535 and ive never ran it b4... it only does it once it starts to get a bit of heat into it (no where nere running temp) but still too warm to touch.

[darrinspencer]

also the turbo wheel sounds to be spinning down once the cars turned off... its a hks 2535 and ive never ran it b4... it only does it once it starts to get a bit of heat into it (no where nere running temp) but still too warm to touch.

Typical of a ball bearing turbo. They spin alot more freely over bush ones

[66yostagea]

It can be a bugger to get the air out the cooling system. Fill it with the heater on and run this way. It will help the bleeding.

[dirtyRS4]

It can be a bugger to get the air out the cooling system. Fill it with the heater on and run this way. It will help the bleeding.

Exzackery - the saga continues..