Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What exactly is the difference between a R33 GTST and R34 GTT clutch line?

I know the gearbox uses a different slave cylinder due to the push/pull clutch difference (maybe the master is different?). But with an aftermarket braided clutch line that simply is a certain length with a fitting on each end, would there be a difference?

The length of the line would have to be the same so it is simply the fittings that I need to know about. The master cylinder would most likely use the same fitting between the models so really it comes down to the slave cylinder.

Does any one know if the fittings are the same? For reference here is a picture of the braided clutch line on a R33 GTST.

post-35676-1289314013_thumb.jpg

Reason I want to know is that Hel do not make a clutch line for the GTT as they have never seen one, however I am sure the GTST one would have to fit.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Phil

Edited by PM-R33

Can't imagine them using a different sized thread. I think the R34 GTT is pull-type clutch so the length would probably be different as the slave cylinder goes on the other side of the clutch fork hole.

http://justjap.com/store/images/P/30620-12U0A.jpg

Hmm interesting. When you say the other side of the clutch fork hole, where exactly is that?

I looked on Just Jap's website and this is the GTST one

http://justjap.com/store/images/P/30620-21U23.jpg

So it still bolts onto the same location? Therefore the line would only be marginally different in length?

Edited by PM-R33

As far as I know the pull type slave actually pushes the fork in the other direction (from rear towards the front meaning the fork pulls the clutch to release and doesn't push). So the slave cylinder is mounted at the rear of the hole that the fork protrudes from. It uses different holes to bolt up, possibly already blanked bosses present on non pull type boxes?

Looks to me like the R34 clutch line would have to be longer. Going by the picture on Just Jap it looks like the thread is on on the rear side of that too.

Edited by Mister25t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.
    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
×
×
  • Create New...