Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just taken my car to get some more work done to the exhaust

droped the car off in good working order

they did do some welding on the car with one of those spike preventers on the battery

went to pick the car up and got told it would not go into gear

i took it for a drive and got 100m up the street when a ABS light and 4WD light came on the dash

the A/T light did come on for a bit but went out again

we put the car on the hoist and had a look the transfer case was red hot like it had been slipping

I think they have spiked the ATTESA computer causing a fault where there is no direct drive to any wheels? maybe

it is in a auto workshop at the moment so fingers crossed its not to bad

any advise on what could be wrong would be a great help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343898-attesaauto-problems/
Share on other sites

ecu reset, just pull the negative lead off the battery - depress the brake pedal a few times to drain any residual power - leave it a few minutes then reconnect the battery lead.

if it still throws codes, then you will have to start chasing the problem.

i'd be trying to think of a cause and effect scenario - so, the fact that they were under the car working on the exhaust - i'd be thinking of things under the car - like maybe they've knocked a plug loose in the side of the trans?

Which trans shop was it at? Sounds trans related to me for sure.

A descent trans shop will pick up what's going on.

Insist they get it flat beded to mike at mv automatics in blackwood as hes got all the necessary diag. stuff for these cars, while ur at it get him to do a shift kit ;-)

Which trans shop was it at? Sounds trans related to me for sure.

A descent trans shop will pick up what's going on.

Insist they get it flat beded to mike at mv automatics in blackwood as hes got all the necessary diag. stuff for these cars, while ur at it get him to do a shift kit ;-)

decent flatbed ride from WA poofter boy... :dry:

i say cya auto... hello 32R gearbox :P

after a trip to trans shop and auto sparkys which was all goo

the problem seemed to be that when they had it on the 2 post hoist apparently the LHR axle had fallen out of the diff

i do find this hard to believe but have order the circlip and seal for the axle and booked it in to get the diff looked at

decent flatbed ride from WA poofter boy... :)

i say cya auto... hello 32R gearbox :)

Didnt see this before, knocking WA. You can talk dick licker. SA is the city of churches and pedophiles. Usefull comments would be more helpful dont you think. Oh thats right you dont read or think so scrap that idea. BTW some ppl like their autos and im using a GTS4 box -not building a track car here. :P

Big Jim take it to someone reputable, i can suggest a handfull and dont let some halfwitt fck with your car. Even better DIY. :blush:

Edited by dirtyRS4
Didnt see this before, knocking WA. You can talk dick licker. SA is the city of churches and pedophiles. Usefull comments would be more helpful dont you think. Oh thats right you dont read or think so scrap that idea. BTW some ppl like their autos and im using a GTS4 box -not building a track car here. :P

Big Jim take it to someone reputable, i can suggest a handfull and dont let some halfwitt fck with your car. Even better DIY. :blush:

hey mate, i'm pretty sure this wasn't an attack on the OP, more like sexual tension between Kidafa and chef. don't worry about.

Mother f**kkkerrr....

DirtyRS4, seriously?

No probs chris, your advice is always good. just sick and tired of this toss bags useless BS. Pm james. speak with jeff ash from C-Red, he has just got back from japan with a S2. Cant wait for this one RB31, os giken box...parts from the nortorious GTAAH

Edited by dirtyRS4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...