Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just like to say that i think OutZero is a shit for brains and if he doesnt have anything posotive to say he should keep his mouth shut and mind his own business. I rang at least 12 places looking for this turbo and there was only one place in sydney that had one at $550 which was sss imports, the other was in melbourne and they wanted $750. So OutZero can shove his $300 up his culo.

Are there many modifications that need to be made for it to bolt on to an RB20?

Other than the snout that i read on this thread, example ecu, injectors, intercooler etc etc. What sort of boost is this turbo capable of running?

Im very interested

  • 1 month later...

I have this setup. It is a direct bolt on in every way. Is definately Ball Bearing. Looks like a T04B compressor form the pic. This turbo runs out of puff @17psi due to being a 1970's unefficient design. Don't get me wrong tho...it will make 250rwkw @ 15psi every day and I have seen 266rwkw on my previous stock engine. 1 Bar was made by 4000rpm and starts building boost b4 2000rpm. The closest comparable turbo is the HKS2835. The HKS builds boost a little quicker however. For the money I have never ever seen a turbo come close to the Hybrid VG/T04B.

Tried and proven setups.

R32- Machine the exhaust housing outlet snout to 51.5mm

R33- Machine the exhaust housing outlet snout to 52.5mm

or buy a TO4B "super" Vtrim compressor from turbonetics which will fit into the already machined comp cover and machine the backplate for spooling 800rpm earlier. =)

PS If you have trouble selling pm me. I will snap it up, built it, and sell it for a $600+ profit

Slo-32. If you are not interested in the T04 side...This turbo would be best suited using your current exhaust housing (.6A/R versus VG-.8A/R), which will bolt straight on (less lag). I will buy the comp cover, wheel and exhaust housing. You can bolt the rest on for a 30rwkw increase.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...