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Hi

I've just changed the plugs on my series 2 R33 rb25det, and even though I'm not mechanically great it wasn't that hard, as I took my time and worked my way through it.

I also coated the coil packs with high temp silicone, after readig some posts.

Went with NGK BPR7ES-11 after reading some posts on here.

Cleaned the air filter as well. It has seemed to make a huge difference, the miss I was getting on boost has completely gone, and the car seems to have more power quicker.

The only problem is it is stalling sometimes as I decelerate, The car starts and idles fine at about 600 rpm, goes really well, just has this intermittent stalling issue.

I rechecked all the vacuum hoses, is it something i may have done, or is it totally unrelated.

Should I look at the AFM or 02 sensor?

Any ideas or thoughts appreciated.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344029-car-stalling-after-plug-change/
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what mods do you have? unless you have an aftermarket turbo then the 7 plugs will be too cold, and while they may be fine now, you may find that in a few weeks if you sit in traffic a bit it will start to run a bit rough as the plugs start to foul up a bit. for standard turbo applications heat range 6 plugs are the way to go. even small aftermarket turbo applications where the car is mostly used as a daily heat range 6 is the way to go.

as for the stalling issue, it may be related to the IAC and AAC valve. this often causes a stalling issue. also if you have an atmo bov then it will also be making this issue worse.

adjust the idle screw anti-clockwise to raise your idle slightly, to around 700 - 750rpm when warm. it will be fine after that.

i just changed my plugs and my idle was slightly lower than before. not stalling or anything, but with the headlights on it would drop a little too low for my liking.

i found a split in my breather hose, which i fixed when i changed my plugs. my guess is that slight leak may have been enough to raise the idle by 50-100rpm. dunno. maybe not.

7's will be fine if you're running around 200kw or higher, say 12psi on stock turbo. theyve been recommended by plenty of tuners/mechanics for this application.

p.s. i drive my car like a granny 70% of the time, and i run 7's. when i change my plugs, they dont look fouled at all.

Edited by Munkyb0y

To my knowledge the only mods are a front mount intercooler, and a K & N type pod filter. The turbo is stock and running pretty much stock boost.

is the idle screw near the throttle cable? sorry m a total noob at this, but can follow instructions like youtube tutorials etc. I have basic mechanical skills.... very basic Lol!

Its actually a very stock car, i bought it off an chinese exchange student who could barely speak english or drive it when he went back home.

the idle screw is on the IAC valve at the back of the plenum. i know that you will read that bit about the IAC valve and just have a blank look on your face so i will tell you what and where it is, LOL.

if you stand at the drivers side front wheel (with the bonnet open obviously, LOL) and look at the intake plenum, towards the back (closest to the firewall) you should see a few plugs and on the same bit a phillips head screw. that is the idle screw. to properly adjust the idle though you can't simply just wind that screw in and out as the ecu will try to counter what you are doing. to properly adjust the idle you need to have the car warm, turn it off, unplug the throttle position sensor (plug on the throttle body with wires coming out of it), start the car again, revi it over 3000rpm a few times in a few seconds (think it's 3 times in 5 seconds) and then you have the car locking into base idle mode. then set the idle to where you want it, turn the car off, plug back in the TPS and you are done.

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