Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im will be talking to a few tuners im in sydney so it will be out of JEM/Powertune/unigroup still probly 4-5months off from any dyno time

quick question guys would a 3 1/2 inch dump to 4inch cat back be over kill for my set up? OR should i just stick to 3 1/2 inch the whole way?

I use Unigroup for all my tuning needs. But, as for the dump pipe, do some real research and find out what suits best. Everyone here will say 4 inch as it sounds good but it might just be to big.

Yes but you need to make sure your transition from 2.5" to 4" is done right I think a 12-15 degree gradient is ok (from memory). There is no such thing as an exhaust that is too big on a turbocharged engine.

So is this Trent a member on here?

has it got more in it?

Same power for slightly less boost. (As im intentiinaly limiting it) This boost chart show Max boost like 4k. He recons more preload will / better tune will knock a bit off that. Made 293 rwkw.

After a quick road tune, the GTX3071 is living up to its promises. Transient response is crazy, it spools to 20psi in what seems like one second. Im going for a run on the dyno on Sunday at this stage so I will post it up as soon as I have the graph. :cheers:

Install thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368795-gtx3071-install/

mine going for a back to back comparison between the GT3076 and GTX version... nothing else has been changed on it. same rear housing size. will be interesting to see what it does on the same dyno. im keen to see boost/spool differences and torque difference. thursday i'll have results

yeah kyle from 6boost organised it for me

let us know how you go with fitment on a 6boost manifold. i have the same housing but to suit a gt30 on a hks cast manifold and fitment is mission impossible in every regard. for example the edge of the t4 flange sits so close to the comp housing that i've had to leave one of the comp housing bolts out as it fouls. have fun with the lines....:thumbsup:

Yeh tonight. Interesting to see what he says.

All very valid unbiased thoughts. Hopefully I will get my answer :)

its a tough path to tread, as its always easier to look over something after its done, im sure my work could be knit picked just as much and i dont know how much time was invested in the setup and tune..

There would be some good gains in the gate preload, i would nearly double it and that should see around 20rwkw @ 4000rpm alone, increasing the map resolution from 120kpa to 180-220kpa will stop it "flat-lining" give more control in the fuelling map. And finally setting the Vct.

I would advise not to move the cams gears from their current "0" setting until the vct is setup and the rest of the suggestions tried first.

Im sure given some more time they will have it sorted 100% they have a great reputation.

This turbo should produce the numbers, its definitely got loads more mid in it.

mine going for a back to back comparison between the GT3076 and GTX version... nothing else has been changed on it. same rear housing size. will be interesting to see what it does on the same dyno. im keen to see boost/spool differences and torque difference. thursday i'll have results

this

mine going for a back to back comparison between the GT3076 and GTX version... nothing else has been changed on it. same rear housing size. will be interesting to see what it does on the same dyno. im keen to see boost/spool differences and torque difference. thursday i'll have results

Very keen to see your results :)

yeah its a RB30, 26 head forgot to mention that - thought we were in the RB30 section :P

im will be talking to a few tuners im in sydney so it will be out of JEM/Powertune/unigroup still probly 4-5months off from any dyno time

quick question guys would a 3 1/2 inch dump to 4inch cat back be over kill for my set up? OR should i just stick to 3 1/2 inch the whole way?

that combo is going to be capable of 400+kw a 4" system from the turbo back is the only option you should be considering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...