Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How would a GTX3076 go with a 0.63 rear housing ( external) assuming it had either water/meth or E85??

assuming it had 22psi, would it be a fail or quite good?

Edited by SliverS2

How would a GTX3076 go with a 0.63 rear housing ( external) assuming it had either water/meth or E85??

assuming it had 22psi, would it be a fail or quite good?

You have the perfect housing, don't change it to the .63 or you will have more issues with det than you have now.

I doubt your engine is that coated in carbon that the compression would have been bumped, Can you get a scope down there for a look? If it is just drop the head off and clean it up, if its not there are some serious issues with your setup Mark.

You have the perfect housing, don't change it to the .63 or you will have more issues with det than you have now.

I doubt your engine is that coated in carbon that the compression would have been bumped, Can you get a scope down there for a look? If it is just drop the head off and clean it up, if its not there are some serious issues with your setup Mark.

Im starting to think its to do with the tuner, he didnt take very long, most of it was done within an hour, on the graph its only holding 16psi and you'd think he would of said, "mate, there only mild cams, you got some issues with leaks somwhere", it even stalled on him on the drive home, i think fix up this leak and possibly change the wastgate spring for a 1bar spring and even replace the resonator and then retune with E85.

How would a GTX3076 go with a 0.63 rear housing ( external) assuming it had either water/meth or E85??

assuming it had 22psi, would it be a fail or quite good?

My standard GT series made good power at only 21psi with .82 rear and full boost is 3800 or something.... So no need for smaller rear I don't think...

how long would it take to clean the motor if your running ethanol? or would that matter if your running ethanol?

Mine had a little carbon on the pistons, a quick squirt of gasket stripper cleaned them right up. Its a 150,000k engine so it should have been fairly caked.

The ethanol wont ever ping with a good tune and it's cheaper to run than 98 now the price dropped. (United) Shame the only outlet in Qld is Warwick, how close are you?

How well did it hold boost in the high rpm?

Did it drop off towards redline?

It used to drop off too 18psi by red line, tuner said if we could hold boost up top it would crack well into the 400's..

Mine had a little carbon on the pistons, a quick squirt of gasket stripper cleaned them right up. Its a 150,000k engine so it should have been fairly caked.

The ethanol wont ever ping with a good tune and it's cheaper to run than 98 now the price dropped. (United) Shame the only outlet in Qld is Warwick, how close are you?

Warwick? im pretty sure theres some close by , well 40mins away at kessels rd mt gravatt which is on the way to the city anyway. :yes:

That would be from the pump, so is it right in saying the tuner will tune it not on the egde to account for if the ethanol content varies?

United is at Warwick.

Ethanol variation isn't a problem, even 10% variation would hardly change the afr's. I guess I have no worries with it as I bought a wideband, perhaps you should lash out $200 on a gauge too if you decide to go with e85?

Every tune is rich on boost, how much so depends on what your tuner is comfortable with. The Jap tuners love 10:1 on petrol with shitloads of timing, here around 12:1 and a less aggressive timing map is the norm. Either of these tunes should have enough overhead for a fair amount of variation and it should never ping anyway. Just make sure your tuner has e85 experience (although most would by now.)

I'm running 19-20:1 on cruise at the moment with no adverse effects, no knock and good exhaust temps. Try that with petrol, it wont run well and you would f*ck your engine fairly quickly I assume.

Mine had a little carbon on the pistons, a quick squirt of gasket stripper cleaned them right up. Its a 150,000k engine so it should have been fairly caked.

The ethanol wont ever ping with a good tune and it's cheaper to run than 98 now the price dropped. (United) Shame the only outlet in Qld is Warwick, how close are you?

You need to get out more.

Caltex goodna

caltex springfield

caltex yamanto

Caltex goldcoast (suburb escapes me)

Caltex upper m Gravatt

All carry Eflex. I fill up at the yamanto outlet regularly and have used most of the others.

Plans are underway for a major increase in outlets, A new plant is being built in north qld right now.

Once completed you will see a major increase in the number of outlets.

any word if this major increase will stretch to NSW?

Nation wide from what I can glean.

The plant is definitely under construction as we speak. A friend has a supply contract for parts for the new truck fleet delivering cane to the plant when it opens.

That is freaking unreal. More or less the only issue I have with moving to ethanol is its availability.

If its more readily available in my area and on the way to wakefield I would happily retune my shitbox to run it.

Anyway, GTX bla bla bla.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
    • yess of course im not using 2nd hand parts from my spare engine, but the place where i live is hard to find parts for the RB20DET ,but for the RB20E is everywhere including new ones and a lot cheaper ,because for the RB20DET you have to order it overseas to get one and it cost a lot of money 3x the price to be exact. so i ask this topic because if i can use the new ones but for RB20E is it compatible or not. if not im screwed haha, not totally screwed but i have to save a lot of money first before i can begin repairing my engine, thanks for the information before.
    • Unless my sensor just died, was only a couple months old, I strongly believe it didn't. How can I test it? I never mentioned it being 20:1+?
    • Well, you wouldn't use 2nd hand bearings out of another engine anyway....so just buying the proper bearings is obviously what you're going to do. The crankshaft would be common. The conrods might be common. There is essentially nothing else you would be able to use.
×
×
  • Create New...