Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A few places sell GTX3076R without turbine housings, at which point they are the same price as a "full" GT3076R... be careful that you dont end up with a full turbo.

Yeah I know, but this was on gcg its bout 1750 for the gt3076 ext and 1300 for the gtx3076 without housing plus antoher 550 for ext housing so its about the same. I find it odd.

gt3076r is $1099 without exh housing get your facts right.

Calm down mate, your right about the price.. 500+ for the 4 bolt or 700+ for the v band housings is an outright rip though.. The internal gate price and the price for the actuator is a joke also.

Hrmm just checked and yeah saw that one but why is the this other one the 52T $1732?

http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=233&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=101

I must be missing something just cant pick it up lol.

  • 2 weeks later...

is it just the blade design that has changed? reading this part "Outline interchangeable with Garrett® GT Series turbos" it makes it seem like i could just buy the better blades that fit my turbo for a cheaper upgrade.

is it just the blade design that has changed? reading this part "Outline interchangeable with Garrett® GT Series turbos" it makes it seem like i could just buy the better blades that fit my turbo for a cheaper upgrade.

Not on the compressor side, but any gt30 rear will fit on the GTX as they haven't changed the turbine wheel.

There are billet compressor wheels on ebay for the gt30, not sure how good they are but you would need to get it balanced by Garrett after fitting it.

My Proflow fittings were weeping ethanol. The rep is looking at them now. I cant fit the turbo until thats sorted unfortunately. Funny enough, the "Torques" ebay fittings were perfect, tested to 90psi as thats all the reg can do.

The other issue I had, there is a large anti surge cup in the fuel tank with small slots in the bottom, at under 1/4 tank the twin walbros can empty it in a few seconds so I need to enlarge the holes. Im back on the stock fuel system for a week or two. (Lucky I left the stock lines in)

  • 3 weeks later...

Got mine back. Gtx3076. Laggier than stock. Duh. Nice power curve 272.9rwkw at 17psi I think they said. Only got power/torque chart. Getting boost chart tommorow.

No internals. This a daily safe tune.

Got mine back. Gtx3076. Laggier than stock. Duh. Nice power curve 272.9rwkw at 17psi I think they said. Only got power/torque chart. Getting boost chart tommorow.

No internals. This a daily safe tune.

Mods? Keen to see the dyno sheet :)

Got mine back. Gtx3076. Laggier than stock. Duh. Nice power curve 272.9rwkw at 17psi I think they said. Only got power/torque chart. Getting boost chart tommorow.

No internals. This a daily safe tune.

That sounds like a normal GT3076 that kind of power, keen to see the dyno sheet to see how much laggier it is compared to a GT3076

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...