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Well. I'm even tempting saying stuff it n go straight to Trent.

Give them the benefit of the doubt, its not going to cost you anything.

TBH it caught me out 1st time i did a LINK, With the LINK unless you do a store after each tuning stage it will loose all your "current" changes and revert to the "original" map that it was started on (not the original base but the same map the car was key started on). They could have accidently lost the last lot of map changes.

Give them the benefit of the doubt, its not going to cost you anything.

TBH it caught me out 1st time i did a LINK, With the LINK unless you do a store after each tuning stage it will loose all your "current" changes and revert to the "original" map that it was started on (not the original base but the same map the car was key started on). They could have accidently lost the last lot of map changes.

I rang lunch time.asked for a a/f chart by the end of the day. Didn't happen.

Give them the benefit of the doubt, its not going to cost you anything.

TBH it caught me out 1st time i did a LINK, With the LINK unless you do a store after each tuning stage it will loose all your "current" changes and revert to the "original" map that it was started on (not the original base but the same map the car was key started on). They could have accidently lost the last lot of map changes.

Plus this is no way near their first link.

The question is... How disapointed will you be if you pay Trent to fix the said issues and you find it is hardly any better?

While I dont doubt his knowledge and opinion, I also know you should never expect too much. I have a feeling the amendments will make for an all round better car but would only hope that a good improvement in response is found, rather than expecting one..

As stated AVO should be willing to tacklw this for you free of charge.

Ye but to be fair - he's been told its got nothing to do with the actuator.

Whilst it really only IS going to be the actuator, 2nd opinion also backed that up what a lot of us suspected anyway. We've all seen enough results to have a "reasonable" idea of where things should sit.

There are also further reccommendations in other area's as well.

I mean go back and see, but i cannot see them being too forthcoming on it all and more time spent might not achieve anything.

I also highly doubt they will do it for free, no one works for free, hell even when they have stuffed up a lot of places still charge.

I'm gonna ask to refund my money on the tune. They seem too busy for me.

let us know how you go with fitment on a 6boost manifold. i have the same housing but to suit a gt30 on a hks cast manifold and fitment is mission impossible in every regard. for example the edge of the t4 flange sits so close to the comp housing that i've had to leave one of the comp housing bolts out as it fouls. have fun with the lines....:thumbsup:

ill trial fit the turbo an make some lines up on the weekend and let you know how i go,

with the rear housing only bolted on the manifold it sits atleast 10mm lower then the HKS one i had

yeah its a RB30, 26 head forgot to mention that - thought we were in the RB30 section :P

im will be talking to a few tuners im in sydney so it will be out of JEM/Powertune/unigroup still probly 4-5months off from any dyno time

quick question guys would a 3 1/2 inch dump to 4inch cat back be over kill for my set up? OR should i just stick to 3 1/2 inch the whole way?

for your thing 4inch is the go. yes turbine outlet is small but you want a nice taper out from the outlet to 4inch pipe. even more important if you are planning to plumb in the wastegate outlet.

http://www.skylinesa...5890781__st__20

almost 1000rpm of spool difference, although completely different dyno setups so not really that compareable. Still it really does look like his is set up perfectly.

He is also using external gate and manifold, what are you using?

Edited by Rolls

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