Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my fuel pump died last night. Luckily it just died as I was parking. I went to put the stock one back in, it makes a horrible grinding sound. Got it towed home for free in the end. Trying to get pump out so can get another one monday, and hopefully put it in - and not pay for another towing, and to get somewhere like trojan to do the whole job.

Where do I get a new fuel pump, what should I get and what is it gonna cost me?

Additionally, I can't actually work out how to get the fuel pump out. As in that tight black pastic ring that holds it on. Still to try to pull the rubber hoses off, but losened the hose clamps. Any one able to provide some help and advice.

Additionally, my tire well was full of water, thats always fun *sighs* I'll have to work that problem out also.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344208-the-problems-begin/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got a walbro one from trojan. didn't cost too much and they swear by them.

put it in yourself, just unscrew that plastic thing you're talking about by using a long screwdriver on the ribs on the side of the cap and hit the screwdriver to get the thing spinning.

the walbro pump is basically a straight replacement, might need a tiny bit of fuel hose and a hoseclamp to make sure it doesn't ever come off it's braket...

it's either that or get a bosch 040 intank pump. Which requires a tiny bit more work to mount... either way not a big job.

The tyre well - was it the issue I mentioned previously last time you said something about it? Big phat hole in the bottom that's supposed to be plugged.

Yeh there was a small hole. I plugged it, and the wheel well FILLED UP, it was letting it empty, not the cause. I believe the cause is water is coming in behind the rear tail lights (the water that gathers in the boot lid gutter).

I got a walbro one from trojan. didn't cost too much and they swear by them.

it's either that or get a bosch 040 intank pump. Which requires a tiny bit more work to mount... either way not a big job.

That is what was in it and died.. I can get another, and hope it doesn't die again.... I got in and got the old pump out to take with me, and double check it is broken.

Discovered my pump hadn't died. It just choked.

Had it out, and was testing it on a battery, tapped it a couple times, whatever got caught in it came free, and all is good again.

It choked cos when it was installed the teabag off the bottom of the standard pump wasn't put on it, so put that on, and now should be all happy and good.

Will put it back in tonight - *fingers crossed*

Next to sort out the water coming in from behind my lights...

good to hear that about the pump. Just keep an eye on it though.

Yeah, shall do. I don't even think that pump had been in there that long or many km's... But at least I can keep an eye on it, and it is a fixable problem.

Perhaps.

But this is a nice Walbro one, and it seems to work, I've put the filter on the bottom and will give it a shot when get home.. *fingers crossed*

If any issues re-occur, I know where to ask. Why the change in pump Kat? I may be willing to get it as a spare just in case depending on the price.

I'll take all the inside panels out of the boot, and take a look and see if can see where water is coming in by pouring some water into the boot sill. I think the water is running behind the headlights then getting into the boot from there, cos the wood in the back was wet, as was the bottom edges of the side wall carpets near the lights.

I can live with the moisture in the rear lights if I must, but not a wheel well fulla water!

yeah stuff having it full of water. Moisture will be unavoidable though given the age of the plastics and guaranteed hairline cracks somewhere...

Kat is changing her fuel setup as her power/boost requirements exceed the flow capacity of her current setup lol....she should be exceeding 400awkw, so it would seem her pump just can't cope :rolleyes:

hopefully the only issue you have with your pump was that it got plugged up.....if the pump fails though while under high revs/full throttle, be prepared to do some nasty damage to the engine...but it's unlikely if the pump itself is fine.

How much would u want for the old one?

Mine was an in tank walbro - gonna put it back and see if works any way, so fingers crossed now that has been cleaned out, flushed, and a filter put on!

Yep Troy is right, it's not cutting it anymore so it's going to make way for 2 in tank Walbros.

Probably the easiest way to find the leak is to strip all the lining out of the boot and jump inside with a torch while your mum* runs water from a garden hose over the closed boot lid. You can usually see where it's coming in.

* Important note - your mates are no good for this job, they'll leave you in there for sure :D

Oh, and I think I have a spare GTR pump somewhere if you are looking to upgrade sometime.

I can just pour the water myself into the edge around the boot. it definately comes in somewhere behind the tail lights, but can't see how, the lights are all properly tar'd in.

However just noticed the rear panel of the car (sides) are filled with water from recently.. but that was cos I plugged the hole that I thought the water was coming in from - when inface it was coming out of.

I've put the old pump back now that is working, it pumps, but was still not able to start the car. Does it need some sort of priming? it fired over a couple times, but only for a single beat then didn't work... Getting frustrated now, cos the pump is definately working...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...