Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've had the car for a few days and everything's pretty good but I did notice a few things:

Suspension creaking noises - I was told by the seller (who was told by Andy I think) that due to the "alloy bushes"? used in the M35 the suspension will creak a little when 1st driven?

Turbo noise - didn't get any of this on my way back from Sydney, but now I notice SOMETIMES (maybe 50%) when I hit boost, I get a "rubbing" noise - imagine driving over the rumble strips on the Hume, now speed it up x2. Sounds just like that...

Is something about to die?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344214-suspensionengine-noises/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If the bearings are on the way out theres nothing you can do about it, highflow time. I would say most Japanese owners would be getting rid of these before the 100,000k turbo replacement or when noises start.

If the bearings are on the way out theres nothing you can do about it, highflow time. I would say most Japanese owners would be getting rid of these before the 100,000k turbo replacement or when noises start.

So the rubbing noise = bearing failing?

I would think it would sound more...metallic/high pitched?

So the rubbing noise = bearing failing?

I would think it would sound more...metallic/high pitched?

The bearings hold the wheels in place, when they wear, the compressor wheel sometimes starts to rub on the front housing causing damage. If the rear bearing wears, the ceramic turbine blades shatter.

What sort of rubbing noise are we talking about? Sounds like what Cams car used to do when the manifold was leaking too, farting... :rolleyes:

The bearings hold the wheels in place, when they wear, the compressor wheel sometimes starts to rub on the front housing causing damage. If the rear bearing wears, the ceramic turbine blades shatter.

What sort of rubbing noise are we talking about? Sounds like what Cams car used to do when the manifold was leaking too, farting... :blink:

Sounds like when you drive over the rumble strip on the left lane on a highway...speed it up x 2 and you have it.

Does remind me of a very low sounding fart...

I might just have to come around and show you :rolleyes:

Sounds like when you drive over the rumble strip on the left lane on a highway...speed it up x 2 and you have it.

Does remind me of a very low sounding fart...

I might just have to come around and show you :rolleyes:

Could just be the manifold to turbo bolts then, dump has to come off to get to them...

Sounds like when you drive over the rumble strip on the left lane on a highway...speed it up x 2 and you have it.

Does remind me of a very low sounding fart...

I might just have to come around and show you :rolleyes:

Sound is probably caused by the turbo not getting enough air.

I had that exact same sound prior to opening up the intake.

1. make sure you have a high flowing panel filter in your airbox

2. if it still makes the noise, get Scott to make you up a suction pipe LIKE MINE

Edited by iamhe77
get a dry one, i rekon the oiled ones are a bit iffy and MIGHT affect performance by leaving oil deposits on the AFM

+1 on getting a dry filter although the oiled ones will only bugger up the AFM if they are over oiled.

I have been using an Amsoil EaA filter (as per the G35 Infinity) for a few years now, no probs with it at all :D

Was quite a reasonable price (much cheaper than K&N etc) from these guys

Good flow, good filtration, good price :D

Edited by iamhe77
+1 on getting a dry filter although the oiled ones will only bugger up the AFM if they are over oiled.

I have been using an Amsoil EaA filter (as per the G35 Infinity) for a few years now, no probs with it at all :D

Was quite a reasonable price (much cheaper than K&N etc) from these guys

Good flow, good filtration, good price :D

Couldn't find air filters on their site?

found these: http://www.nengun.com/nismo/s-tune-sports-air-filter

Which is the correct part number? And How long do they last?

The K&N ones supposedly last 50k km???

That "rubbing" noise is the blow off valve.

It's almost like a brrrrruuuu as you slowly let your foot off the pedal during full boost, isn't it?

It's quite common.

You can fix this by blocking the blow off valve off or replacing it with a different one.

That "rubbing" noise is the blow off valve.

It's almost like a brrrrruuuu as you slowly let your foot off the pedal during full boost, isn't it?

It's quite common.

You can fix this by blocking the blow off valve off or replacing it with a different one.

I don't suggest it, mine holds 22 psi just fine. I drove Aarons with an aftermarket bov and wasn't impressed. Sorry Aaron. :)

That fart sound from the stock blow off valve is embarassing. Especially if you've got chicks in the car :)

From outside they look at the car and it looks like it's new but little do they know when you boost a bit, it poos in it's pants.

I don't suggest it, mine holds 22 psi just fine. I drove Aarons with an aftermarket bov and wasn't impressed. Sorry Aaron. :)

PSSHHHTTT...... Hektic!

Re fart noise- Sounds like +1 for having a NA car. Chicks don't think you had a bad Curry the night before ..... :)

That "rubbing" noise is the blow off valve.

It's almost like a brrrrruuuu as you slowly let your foot off the pedal during full boost, isn't it?

It's quite common.

You can fix this by blocking the blow off valve off or replacing it with a different one.

So will this issue damage the turbo/engine if I don't fix it soon?

I don't want to get any BOV which makes stupid "pffffffeeeeeeeeeeeew" noises.

Hunt around for a stock one I guess?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...