Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just fitted a 2 way diff, vs the stock viscous item. Its an excellent upgrade, and really highlights the deficiencies with the stock unit, but something strange seems to have happened.

Initially the torque down low appeared to have increased noticeabley, which surprised me, but I put down to perhaps being a 4.3:1 diff (I bought it second hand off someone who didnt know much about it) BUT, now my car is now starting to register knock ALOT higher than before. Previously I was getting knock reading between 15-30 when on the foot and under high load (up hills). All was good. Now, after just fitting the diff, my knock has gone up to 70 - thank god for the check engine light. I pulled 2 degrees timing and it still went up around 40 on the knock sensor, I pulled 3 deg total and it sorted the problem but of course the car is a bit more sluggish.

Also, for some reason, I cant boost past 1.3bar????

My thoughts are that the characterists of the new diff (the fact that it gets alot more power down than the stock one, perhaps a different ratio) are such that load on the engine has changed enough to throw the tune compeletely out?

Does anybody have any ideas on what might be the problem? I do intend on getting a retune very soon, but would like to know if it could be the diff, or if I have a problem elsewhere?

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34428-new-diff-fitted-car-out-of-tune/
Share on other sites

Hmm, initially I thought that you may have been spinning one wheel with the stock diff, but now the 2 way your not, and therefore there would be more load on the motor = pinging..

BUT, not being able to boost upto what you were before would suggest a tuning problem or something else wrong.

I hope you get it sorted.

J

This may sound stupid, but is the new diff "noisier" than the std. item? ie does it make noise / vibration through the car?

I ask cos i read something about "interference" noise or something that the knock sensors can pick up.

Maybe try swapping the old diff back ;)

No way the old diff is going back. the car handles 10,000% better (ok I exagerate a little). Seriously, everything about the car is better, its quicker off the line (no more chirps every time I take off), much flatter through corners (the car is so much quicker to punt around corners on or off power) and pulls harder first, second and third. Plus the back end is so predictable and it doesnt do crazy 'back end into the next lane' action when putting the boot in, just a gentle sway:) If I realised how much improvement was available over the stock diff, I would have seriously done this along time ago.

The diff is pretty quiet actually, makes a few small clunks at low speed when taking off esp if going around a tight bend, but other than that its all good.

How much did this cost Steve... i had my line checked over by Gavin Wood i could tell myself it was a little more noiser than what it should be.... so rang up the warranty company and the diff is currently getting looked at.... according to the warranty i can claim upto 1500 soo any help we be awsome.

Peace

Michael

No warranty for me:) I got it second hand for $350. It was sold to me sight unseen as a 1 way diff of unknown origin out of an R33. when it got here I checked it out and its a 2way nismo. The diff definately is working well, infact it behaves better (less NVH) than cars I have been in with os giken or kaaz diffs.

Bl4cK32, if you are quick, I heard a rumour that Z Imports (south tce wingfield) have a 2 way and only want around $500 for it, which is a bargain.

CGB_R32 just re-read your post - I hope you are not confusing the extra noise a mechanical diff makes with the diff being rooted. Mechanical diffs do clunk and grind a bit at low speeds esp when manouvering, such as in a car park, or tight cornering at low speeds. the stock viscous one wont do this.

I first thought the knock could be because of extra load on the engine, but the more I think about it, the more I think the knock would be lower. I am pretty sure (will be checking on the weekend) that the diff is higher ratio, which is why I am getting the extra torque down low, that and the fact that both my wheels now put the power down.

PRO 32, dont worry, you will absolutely love it, the difference is unbelieveable:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...