Consult Results

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

ok good news, i have no errors when i checked with the consult software on my r33gtst, but i have one question, when ignition is on but car is not running, it says my timing is 20 degrees, and when running it fluctuates alot, from 5-35 it bounces around alot, also, my o2 readings are all over the grid, going from one end of the guage to the other just back and forth, im trying to figure out why my idle is rough, could these issues be causing it? or arent these issues?

cheers

[chuckie]

Hi I think that`s normal,O2 is like that,i have Neo & mine`s much same ,BUT NOT WHEN CAR ENGINE IS OFF 20 deg timing

[R3N3]

ive just done the same thing, and i noticed when it almost stalls when you touch the accellorator, the o2 sensor has a bit of a spaz, then the timing adjusts to compensate (correct me if im wrong). i also noticed my aac valve fluctuate, is this normal?

[STATUS]

set the tps and adjust the idle bleed screw and timing will stay rock solid.

the timing is hunting to try control the idle as the iac is out of range.

[marksuxass]

ok good news, i have no errors when i checked with the consult software on my r33gtst, but i have one question, when ignition is on but car is not running, it says my timing is 20 degrees, and when running it fluctuates alot, from 5-35 it bounces around alot, also, my o2 readings are all over the grid, going from one end of the guage to the other just back and forth, im trying to figure out why my idle is rough, could these issues be causing it? or arent these issues?

cheers

Your fluctuating O2 reading is known as O2 sensor frequency (rich-lean-rich-lean), which is completely normal. Im pretty sure consult will read 20 degress BTDC when ingnitions on. And it will change whilst driving. Soo all sounds pretty normal too me.

[R3N3]

set the tps and adjust the idle bleed screw and timing will stay rock solid.

the timing is hunting to try control the idle as the iac is out of range.

is there a post on how to do this?

cheers

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

set the tps and adjust the idle bleed screw and timing will stay rock solid.

the timing is hunting to try control the idle as the iac is out of range.

do you know of a guide to do this?

[zebra]

turn ign on but dont start he car, and turn the tps until it reads zero on consult.

Then get a big phillips head screw drivers and adjust the IAC screw until the idle settles down. Then do an ECU reset (disconect the battery) and you should be good to go

[R3N3]

turn ign on but dont start he car, and turn the tps until it reads zero on consult.

Then get a big phillips head screw drivers and adjust the IAC screw until the idle settles down. Then do an ECU reset (disconect the battery) and you should be good to go

i thaught its ment to read 0.38V?? and which is the iac screw? is it the one on the throttle body??

cheers

[NewKleer]

yes normally 0.45v or there abouts (check service manual), definitely not 0v

one quick way to adjust idle screw is after car up to full operating temp, watching AAC value come down as you adjust idle screw, and once AAC stops coming down (should be under 30) can stop. but good idea to check timing with timing light and also do proper base idle adjustment via consult (free conzult has the test in it) after this.

[zebra]

When I said 0 I meant the minimum value, shouldve worded it better, you will never get zero volts when the ign is on.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

what do you mean by turning the tps? isnt it a fixed module on the tb?

[zebra]

on 32s and 33's there are 2 small phillips head screws the hold the TPS on the shaft (LOL SHAFT)

if you loosen those off you can turn the TPS

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

on 32s and 33's there are 2 small phillips head screws the hold the TPS on the shaft (LOL SHAFT)

if you loosen those off you can turn the TPS

ok, so if i losen say the top one? adjusting the tps will do what to my idle? and what am i looking for it to do exactly?

(ive never done this can u tell?)

[zebra]

you will need to loosen both as it rotates, wont really affect your idle, but it may help if the ECU thinks that the throttle is slightly open when it isnt.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

you will need to loosen both as it rotates, wont really affect your idle, but it may help if the ECU thinks that the throttle is slightly open when it isnt.

ok, so what exactly am i trying to achieve when im rotating the tps?

[NewKleer]

get the TPS to around 0.45v. so obviously dont need to if its close to this already.

check your AAC value when car warmed up and idling, and also check the Closed Throttle switch in ECUTalk software to make sure its triggered (on) when throttle closed and off when its opened.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

get the TPS to around 0.45v. so obviously dont need to if its close to this already.

check your AAC value when car warmed up and idling, and also check the Closed Throttle switch in ECUTalk software to make sure its triggered (on) when throttle closed and off when its opened.

ok, whats the AAC value supposed to be when warm?

[NewKleer]

one quick way to adjust idle screw is after car up to full operating temp, watching AAC value come down as you adjust idle screw, and once AAC stops coming down (should be under 30) can stop. but good idea to check timing with timing light and also do proper base idle adjustment via consult (free conzult has the test in it) after this.

mine doesnt seem to go under about 20, but other people have said theirs will come down to like 10 or 16. as long as its south of 30 is usually sufficient - too high and can result in stalling and other issues.

however, if the ECU is pulling timing, then its likely that its too low currently all else being equal/OK (i.e. it cant close the AAC any more to lower idle, so has to drop timing) so you might have to wind the idle screw until the AAC value starts to move UP.

[ClutchBurndout-:(]

my tps was at around .32 or .35 or something, so fixed that, not much change in the drive, i still have hunting at idle, could it be an air leak somewhere?