Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just asking because im thinking of getting one + apexi drop in filter, not keen on the K&N because its oiled

Local nissan dealer wanted $330 for one which is a joke when they can be had for $90US + $45 postage

Was also thinking if I was going to go through e-bay to try and get the tube + spacer + camber arms at the same time to save on postage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344404-z-tube-owners/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

g'day fellas,

i've emailed stillen and got a reply back today.

basically the kit from their website: stillen CAI + z-tube is priced at 261.48US

i was quoted postage to melb at ~210US via fedex, which is abit steep...

not sure if this is a decent price or not, as i havnt heard back from a few other sites i've emailed.

cheers,

steven

Edited by steebs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344404-z-tube-owners/#findComment-5573948
Share on other sites

g'day fellas,

i've emailed stillen and got a reply back today.

basically the kit from their website: stillen CAI + z-tube is priced at 261.48US

i was quoted postage to melb at ~210US via fedex, which is abit steep...

not sure if this is a decent price or not, as i havnt heard back from a few other sites i've emailed.

cheers,

steven

mate let me know when youre gonna order.. i will 100% order this kit with you and we can split postage

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344404-z-tube-owners/#findComment-5574147
Share on other sites

mate let me know when youre gonna order.. i will 100% order this kit with you and we can split postage

are you in melb too ?

if anyone else is in melb, let me know, maybe i can sort out a group buy with them or something

any yeh, thats what i thought when i saw the price of postage - its basically the same price as the intake haha

cheers,

steven

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344404-z-tube-owners/#findComment-5574159
Share on other sites

are you in melb too ?

if anyone else is in melb, let me know, maybe i can sort out a group buy with them or something

any yeh, thats what i thought when i saw the price of postage - its basically the same price as the intake haha

cheers,

steven

im in syd but shouldn't cost too much for me to ship it up.. should still workout cheaper anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344404-z-tube-owners/#findComment-5574202
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey all,

just got my Z-tube from the US cost $55 US which was from "Beshoff infiniti" in san jose.

They have en EBAY store which you can link to from their website

http://www.beshoffinfiniti.com/index.htm?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=f12&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial&q=beshoff+infiniti&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=

the tube and hi flow apexi panel filter does make the engine sound much better than the stock sound!

Cheers

Edited by mellowman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344404-z-tube-owners/#findComment-5623991
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...