Jump to content
SAU Community

Left Overs From Wrecking R33 + R34 Indicators And 32 Spoiler


Recommended Posts

Leftovers from wrecking r33 series 1.5 all parts located in sa adel hills. clearing out for room.

lhs front gaurd $50

rhs front gaurd $50

rhs front headlight $50

gaurd orange indicators $10 pair

dash missing two small vents on top $80

center consol 40

heater/aircon control $40

heater $80

entire floor carpet $50

roof lining $20

center roof light $5

map lights $10

holy shit handles on roof $5

lhs a pillar $10

speedo cluster $80

glovebox $20

rhs sun visor $10

rear lhs tail light $80

passengers door$100 with all electrics

door linings and electrics can be separated along with mirrors

side skirts (one broken in half) $30 pair

windows (remove yourself or get removed properly) $$$

3"catback exhaust with emptied cat and rear cannon $200

interior lining $50

parcel shelf $20

boot lining $40

boot seal $15

bonnet latch $30

horn $10

fuel tank $50

rear skyline strip between lights $40

scuff panels inside doors $20 pair

fuel cap covering panel $10

windscreen wiper stalk $10

indicator stalk $10

steering column $20

rear rotors and calipers $150

front 5stud hubs $100 pair

standard diff $150

front suspension $50

rear subframe $200

r32 rear spoiler mspec 40$

r34 gtr front indicators (orange) $40 pair

r34 side indicators $20 (orange)

0419837474 prefer sms or call as apposed to pm, thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

do u have passenger door for the 33 still ,if so how good is it paint ,dents,rust etc as i am pretty fussy thanks Darren

yep i just removed it then. i couldnt find any dents or rust on the door. the triangle section where the side mirror is inserted however has rusted, its not visible when the mirror is in, so if you were to treat it and apply an undercoat its not going to affect what you see anyway as its hidden.

the rest of stuff i really want gone so open to offers.

the shell has been sold sowhat i have listed in origional post is all available, prob a few bits gone since.

the entire steering rack i pulled out thismorining- also heater unit. (please no msgs like "will u post steering rack to syd for $100 inc postage" because no i wont. postage alone is probably more than 100$ so please no time wasters like i have previously"

so ...bump to see everything gone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey

is the mspec spoiler like a standard gtr one? (forgive my ignorance)

thanks

hey

the gtr spolier is not the same as the mspec. gtr spolier is u shaped and does not have a center connction to the boot. the mspec one i have connects at both ends of the boot and also in the center and is really only about a cm maybe a touch higher gap between spolier and boot. it also has a brake light inbuilt into it. which if you dont like can fibreglass up. if you want a photo sms me and il mms a photo through.5114250195_c60415c9ec_z.jpgthis is like the spoiler i have, in undercoat,

90blackgtst32.JPG gtr spolier

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...