Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Looking for some troubleshooting advice, I have a 96 S2 R33 with turbo back exhaust, 12psi (turbotech mbc), Bosch 040, super spark coils and iridium plugs.

For the past couple of months the car has been 'hesitating' under full throttle, you put your foot flat, the car builds revs as normal then all of a sudden it jolts like you've taken your foot off the accelerator and slammed it back down again, revs will continue to build for another ~5 secs then it will do the same thing again. This happens the worst in 3rd, 4th and 5th, occasionally in 2nd, never in first and occasionally it won't happen at all. Typically the earliest I see this problem would be roughly 3000rpm in 3rd, it does not occur in neutral.

Things I've tried:

- Removing intake from turbo right up to throttle body, visually checking joiners for splits and replacing hose clamps.

- Tested BOV operation with a compressor, eliminated (blocked) BOV.

- Tested wastegate with compressor.

- Checked vac lines to boost controller, dissasembled boost controller and checked spring/ball moving freely.

- Checked IAC vac line for visual splits, checked boost guage/fpr vac lines.

- Visually checked SMIC for damage.

- Checked AFM voltage not maxing out via consult.

Anyone have some advice of what I can try next?

Cheers.

Edited by nicr4wks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344433-hesitating/
Share on other sites

its R&R. your boost is too high for standard ecu so it chucks a sad. set your boost to 9psi max and you should be alright. my 33 used to do it at 10psi so im only running 7 now, havent had it happen since

Edited by XxNinjaxX
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344433-hesitating/#findComment-5551367
Share on other sites

 Car used to run on 13.5psi without issue, problem has occurred several months after going down to 12psi, also occurs at 10psi.

Doesn't R&R occur when the AFM is maxed out? Which if I'm correct is at 5v, according to Consult I'm only getting ~4.5v max on the AFM, I'll try logging tonight to get a better picture. Also, having hit R&R previously, there was a lot of black smoke and loud backfires from all the extra fuel, this is not happening. It feels more like the throttle body is snapping shut then opening straight back up.

Edited by nicr4wks
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344433-hesitating/#findComment-5551609
Share on other sites

It would seem that it is not R&R due to AFM maxing out, in 3rd the AFM was reading 4.12v when the jolt occurred, in 2nd I was able to read 4.80v without any jolt.

Do not believe it is the coilpacks, the hesitation is very different from failing coil(s)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344433-hesitating/#findComment-5553329
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...