Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

repairable write-off

Someone correct me here, but I thought a write off was the situation when the repairs are more expensive than the agreed value of the car?!

I can't see how a new roof and shit, even considering it's a brand new, top of the range car, would cost >140k.

Yeah? No?

Someone correct me here, but I thought a write off was the situation when the repairs are more expensive than the agreed value of the car?!

I can't see how a new roof and shit, even considering it's a brand new, top of the range car, would cost >140k.

Yeah? No?

give me a second and I'll log into the shop :D I have current LOCAL and JAP FAST loaded there and I can acess a price database fairly easiily.

ok:

G3112-JF0MA - roof panel $1500

731D0-JF00A - roof reiniforcement $1000

73910-JF21A - Roof lining $1000.

79700-JF30B - rear Glass kit - unable to price.

thats a starting point. I have about half a page pf things that 'could' be damaged on it.

in reality I can see $10k in parts myself. especially if it got into the SRS and electrical system.

given that the car has curtains and seat bags and that the curtains are bolted from the rear of the car I'd suggest that they are also part of the write off quote.

power to someone buying it and fixing it. it certainly will not be a cheap evercise.

Guys, both quarter panels are gone, they are welded to the chassis, boot is gone, spoiler gone, roof gooooone, windscreen, interior is completely ruined including seats, glass has scratched the thing to pieces - at $60 k the repair would have to come under about $55 k to make it worthwhile. The car has had a very big impact so suspect some chassis damage, I wouldnt race it with that sort of damage, and at $60 k, do the math.......

get the angles right on camera and you could look as nuts as the boys off jackass...taking a chainsaw to the roof

when you're done hacking it off, whack an awesome cage in it (easy access), and then do a full carbon fibre roof.

job done.

edit - previous owner says it's bent like a banana....dream over.

Edited by tk80

looking further at that - rear quarters both sides ( I had these pegged for replacing.) and prettly much all the hardware attached to them.

G8100-JF0MA - REAR FENDER RH - $2600.

G8101-JF0MA - REAR FENDER LH - $2600.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...