Jump to content
SAU Community

Vlt To R33

Huzqld

By Huzqld,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Huzqld Enthusiast

Huzqld

Posted
Posted

Gday guys

Im looking into buying a series 2 R33 Gtst. For something different and a bit more modern plus being abit over the vl.. Maintenance and any work on the car will not be an issue. I started off with a n/a vl which now has 283rwkw. But I have changed basically everything. Anyway I would be looking at using anything i could on the 33. The 35/40. ecu injectors fuel reg thats prob about all that will fit..

Be hoping for around the 300rwkw mark and it will be a daily driver. I dont thrash my cars all the time just the odd squirt. What are the weak links in these r33's?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344507-vlt-to-r33/
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

They're a pretty solid base to start with, normal things like a decent clutch and a well maintained engine, 300rwkw daily driven isn't too much to ask.

About all that will swap over is the turbo and fuel pressure reg, ECU might if it's a wirein standalone but pretty sure injectors are significantly different enough to not warrant it.

Also, if you have forged the bottom end in the VL, keep it for a future 25/30 conversion :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344507-vlt-to-r33/#findComment-5553592
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

the 35/40 may be a bit big for the 25 without putting the rb30 bottom end in, especially if it's going to be a daily. as bubba said, ecu will be fine if it's a wire in job, but if a plug and play probably not. injectors won't fit. rb25 are side feed, VL are top feed. fuel reg, well not much point with that without the rest, and even if the the bigger injectors did fit there's still not much point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344507-vlt-to-r33/#findComment-5554001
Share on other sites
Huzqld Enthusiast

Huzqld

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys. Ecu is a v88 wire in. Was hoping i could use the injectors with a different fuel rail but not by the sounds of it. 35/40 has a .82 rear on it. Would be fairly laggy on the 25 i guess.. Do they even fit on the std manifolds in these things (with a spacer)? And also how are they for spare parts (price-availability)? Car I am looking at has forged rods/pistons.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344507-vlt-to-r33/#findComment-5554073
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

Aftermarket injectors are getting cheaper, secondhand drop in items for 33's pop up on the forums all the time.

Turbo won't be excellent, but will still be fun and make the numbers while you strip down the RB30E ready for the bottom end swap (it's not that hard, I did mine in a weekend - do a lot of research and purchasing before you commence though.. head gasket, vct mod, oiling mods). Has been known to fit with a spacer but most people go the 3076 as a good match for the rb25. Maybe look for a .63 rear..

If the car you're looking is forged already, with good tuning and maintenance the bottom end should live a long healthy life - giving you lots of time to build a bulletproof 30 bottom end :(

Spare parts wise, heaps of kids crash them - parts are everywhere and reasonably priced. Lots of stuff on the forums.

Summary: Do it. Skylines are much more fun than VL's! And have a good search of this site, it's a fountain of knowledge!

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344507-vlt-to-r33/#findComment-5554717
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SeanR32GtSt
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By SeanR32GtSt · Posted

      I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...