Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I got a prob with install cooling pro intercooler. baught from just jap last week. any body know how to fix the boost controll hose. pls refer the photo attach. thanks for your help

post-68136-1289900748_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344528-r33-coolong-pro-intercooler-install/
Share on other sites

when i put my cooler on (wasn't a cooling pro but i had the same issue), i cut the nipple on and welded it to the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. other people have simply bought a screw in nipple and put that into the pipe.

when i put my cooler on (wasn't a cooling pro but i had the same issue), i cut the nipple on and welded it to the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. other people have simply bought a screw in nipple and put that into the pipe.

thanks mate

i'm not a big fan of using plenumn vac lines for boost. i know people in the past (and myself) who have had boost spiking issues when using a line hooked to the plenum. that is why i welded mine into the pipe from the turbo to the cooler. before doing it i would occasionally get a spike up to 14psi (boost was set at 11). after moving it i had no spiking issues.

yeah same ^. much steadier feed from there. doesnt fluctuate as wildly in cold/hot weather either.

1+. thats what i thought. anyway i have hook up a niple to the pipin and fix the thing. thanks

everybody :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everything I found online said never use it because it'll dramatically reduce belt lifespan.  No, but I have seen excessive v-belt tension cause the audible bearing noise from excessive radial load in things like alternators. So don't overdo it. Ideally you set it to manufacturer spec using a proper belt tension guage. I tried the "clicker" type gauges but those cheap things are trash. They read way too low even when you're careful.
    • This is kind of where I've ended up for the most part. It's easier for me, easier for shops that don't have to deal with my weird criteria/picky standards, etc.
    • Will do. Suprised if it's not the starter motor considering it's 30 years old. Will get a volt meter though. Battery is close to new.   Cheers for your help, always appreciated.
    • This almost never happens these days. No. Clean your battery terminals and make sure they are tight. Use sandpaper on a dowel if you have to, to get oxidation off the inside of the terminals, particularly on the -ve. Check the earth cable from battery post to chassis ground and engine ground. Make sure the contact surfaces are clean - including the threads on the bolts that anchor them - because that's where a lot of the contact occurs. Wire wheel on a drill is a good thing for this. Make sure the crimps on those cables are all sound. Assuming none of that causes an improvement: Check the battery voltage after it has been resting for a while. If it's at the lower end of the range, put it on charge for a while, then see if it will crank better.
    • I just checked my belt, it wasn't super loose but I could bend it past 90 degrees a small amount so I tightened it up and for the first time ever my car didn't crank first time, had to crank it again lol. Don't know if that was because I tightened the belt or if it's my starter motor going out (been having slow starts for some time). Coulda also been when I was recording I didn't crank the key properly and it didn't save the recording lol.   Is that a thing if you overtighten a belt it struggles to start?
×
×
  • Create New...