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I personally prefer castrol multitrax 75w/90 GL5; VMX80 GL4 used to be recomended back when i had a VL many, many years ago. Always had shit shifting with it, changed to Multitrax way back then much, much nicer shifting, gearboxes lasted better too. People talk about some GL5 oils causing wear or coating on brass synchros etc. Never had a problem with it. GL5 is corrosive to old-old school white metal bearings(from the ark) which we don't have to worry about. I personally prefer the shift of multitrax over syntrans or VMX-M (GL4 also). Just my experience. I am sure many SAU trained experts will disagree with my personal preferences. i just hate VMX80.

Agree with Roy however, for track use, i would use synthetic...

  • 2 months later...

anyone?

oil experts?

can anyone help with castrol msds?

Yep- MSDS stands for, Material Safety Data Sheet.

In other words.

What's in it.

How to transport.

How to handle it.

How to contain when spilt.

the list goes on and on etc.

sound like you wish to know what in the oil, and here where it gets tricky, try and get a msds and you'll see what I mean, been there done that, you can get them, manufactures have to supply these by law for all/any product.

what I mean by tricky is, unless you have expertise in oil, then what does this info realy mean to you!

Ok then, try the oil manfactures web site.

Penrite have msds and data sheets on their site.

It sounds like your maybe after data sheets.

and the tricky part I was simply refering to for example was, so much % zinc for instance is good for ?.

and on a forum site which is full of opinions you are willing to trust what % additives does what in a blend of oil.

and then you'll take into account wear/tear from a car you have never seen and trust that opinion!.

this would start a topic arguement that would see out this and the next century, and after reading all the comments nearly everyone who looked at it would be scratching their heads wondering w@&%tf.

so that's why I didn't bother with my opinion on what does what.

  • 2 weeks later...

The last post is exactly what I mean, and the next bloke will swear by it.

oil is highly dependant on mechanical condition,the stress that it is placed under and how reguarly it changed etc.

that an opionion on what is the truly the correct oil is hard to nail down.

a place to start is what was recomended by the manfacture and go from there.

of course taking into account materials used in gear boxes from 20yrs ago may of changed and may not be compataible with modern oils.

I had an experiance with synthetic lsd oil in an 1985 mk patrol lsd diff,so oil post dated 1995 manfactured the car.

I had heard that syn oil can glase over the friction surface on older school diffs but thought to myself thats sounds weird and proberly a myth. and low and behold,diff would not lock up any more within a year and this old girl was only used twice a week low k's.

this is the sort of reason I threw my 2cents in.

It may of been that the diff was a problem, but it was just fine prior and was only changed to syn so it didnt need to be changed as oftern as it was a low 5k per yr car.

now that's was a few yrs back and syn oil would have changed some by now I'm sure but Its exactly the sort/type of reason oil questions are a topic of debate.

I've just swapped from Penrite Hypoid 80W-90 to VMX-80, i found the Penrite to be HORRIBLE for the first 10>15 mins while the transmission was warming up. Second would clunk every single time. Felt like complete crap. It was alright for the first 1000km though ill have to admit but wasnt anything special.

As soon as i swapped to VMX-80 its improved dramatically, however ive only put perhaps 500km through it so far.

I might try syntrans next, i tend to swap trans oil at the same interval i do engine oils, considering a 4L bottle of VMX-80 is only $35 i cant see why not. Besides i only drive my GTR on street running 250kw. Hardly ever launch or put high load on the trans.

Yep been there done that on the wifes gq patrol with the penrite, was not happy with the way box felt.

The second i change the oil the slave cyl started to let go and caused poor disengagment and i thought it was the oil at first, as you would.

So once that was fixed it felt pretty good not spot on but good enough not to change oil again.

Now I can see a slight leak on clutch master, so the slight poor change feel may be related to master.

have to replace it also, and we'll see.

So once again this is the type of reason oils are a hot topic.

But as an engine oil I swear by it.

Been using it for yrs in lancer, pulsar an old mk patrol, engine was completly stuffed but I recon penrite was the reason it kept going.

When I first got my GTR 6 yrs ago I was using 5/30w penrite for 18mths, a daily drive I did at least 40k not to mention what was on it prior to me .

And as the std turbo's let go as they do I opted for a full reco.

I was amazed to see when my mechanic showed me the good condition the bearing etc where in.

We then discused our opionions on the oils we like, as you do, and he was impressed also with penrite after seeing my engine.

Now don't ask, he's a profesional engine race car and st car mechanic so I'm not giving his name as that's not very prudent for me to do that without his concent.

Since engine was recoed first 20k was mutol on his word, but Ive returned to penrite last 25k and happy as a pig in mud, I simply can't justify the extra expence over I oil I know works just fine for half the price.

Now this is a st only car so it dos'nt get stresed like a race car.

So any debate on how it's no good for a purpose I don't put my car through is a waste of time. I'm simply stating I'm very happy with the job it is doing.

Cheers

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