Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lot of people put R34 coilovers in and find that the back end is a bit soft - because of all the extra weight over the rear suspension that the wagon has over a sedan/coupe.

mine has got GT-R coilovers in it, but with higher spring rates in the back and i reckon it handles and rides pretty nice. i can find out toinght what the spring rates are for you, but from memory they are 12kg.

I currently run 12kg front and 10kg rear (have done so for over 2 years) ... but downsizing to 10kg front and 8kg rear, as I'm growing tired of Adelaide "pot hole" roads.

So I would recommend 10kg front and 8kg rear.

I currently run 12kg front and 10kg rear (have done so for over 2 years) ... but downsizing to 10kg front and 8kg rear, as I'm growing tired of Adelaide "pot hole" roads.

So I would recommend 10kg front and 8kg rear.

Ok great thanks Ruby! Im looking at a set of coilovers at the moment, which have 9kg & 7kg! So thats fairly close, what do you think? Close enough or should i look for a set 1kg firmer?

It might take a bit of reading, but have a look through this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ion-t53079.html

SydneyKid did a LOT of work early in the piece to find out heaps about the suspension in the Stagea and used to offer a kit that he'd developed (he's a suspension engineer) for Stageas, Skylines, S-chassis cars (S13/S14/S15), and quite a few other cars.

It might take a bit of reading, but have a look through this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ion-t53079.html

SydneyKid did a LOT of work early in the piece to find out heaps about the suspension in the Stagea and used to offer a kit that he'd developed (he's a suspension engineer) for Stageas, Skylines, S-chassis cars (S13/S14/S15), and quite a few other cars.

Well that was a long and sometimes painful read, some interesting stuff in there too! While SK did obviously put in alot of effort in the early days of the stagea being in Aus, and much respect for the effort & shaing the info, i feel (with no disrespect intended) that he is rather conservative with his settings! 3kg springs really? I have king springs & the whiteline bars in the car at the moment and its waaaaaay tooooo soft & even the bars could do with the next size up X & XX, im not happy with the std setup at all! Well i think i will use that as a base line guide, but do it my own way & post the results when it all comes together (good or bad)!

Cheers for your input guys, i'll keep ya posted on my progress! (eventually we can compile an abstract or a definative guide to stagea suspension modding)! (rather than read a million pages)

Well that was a long and sometimes painful read, some interesting stuff in there too! While SK did obviously put in alot of effort in the early days of the stagea being in Aus, and much respect for the effort & shaing the info, i feel (with no disrespect intended) that he is rather conservative with his settings! 3kg springs really? I have king springs & the whiteline bars in the car at the moment and its waaaaaay tooooo soft & even the bars could do with the next size up X & XX, im not happy with the std setup at all! Well i think i will use that as a base line guide, but do it my own way & post the results when it all comes together (good or bad)!

When Sydneykid did the kits, he had the springs made esp to his spec's. They are all sold now and it was not worth him getting 10 sets (min) order done. He advised me the closest other springs available were the King springs.

I ended up fitting these with a set of his Bilstiens. My opinion the springs are more than heavy enough. They are around 25% heavy than stock at around 4kg. Springs are R33 GTR front, R32 GTR rears in Low spec. Do not use super low spec.

You mentioned you have kings already, but what shocks have you got?

If they are stock than I would say that is why you think the kings are too soft. Any spring8kg or higher on the street to stiff for our crappy roads.

lot of people put R34 coilovers in and find that the back end is a bit soft - because of all the extra weight over the rear suspension that the wagon has over a sedan/coupe.

mine has got GT-R coilovers in it, but with higher spring rates in the back and i reckon it handles and rides pretty nice. i can find out toinght what the spring rates are for you, but from memory they are 12kg.

FYI,

I found 8kg front with 6kg rear to be a good mix, thats what is in Smokeys car as it used to be mine. It was running R33 GTR Greddy Coilovers, these come with linear front springs and progressive rears, I swapped the rears out for 6kg linear eibach springs.

Eibach springs are probably about the best you can get if you are after springs as they have springs in almost every weight, diameter, length and they are awesome quality too. Also they are not that much probably pay around $4-500 for a set all around I reckon.

hey mate i have isc coilovers i brought around a year and a half ago which came with 12kg fronts and 10kgs rear i found it just to stiff so i just recently brought 8kg front 6kg rear springs and so far so good alot softer than before . car still handles great

I have tein s-tech springs specifically for WGNC34. They are rated at 3.6kg front and 3.8kg rear. They arent stupid low either. I have a R33 GTR swaybar to fit on the front and 24mm whiteline solid swaybar coming soon. Good for most road conditions. SK Bilsteins with adjustable circlip would be ideal. Track cars run a stiffer setup.

Edited by dirtyRS4

I just bought HKS coilovers, with a few sets of springs 5->9kgs, so i will play around and see how its goes! (i like to drive pretty hard through the hills, wanted a gtr, but needed a wagon, so.... super stagea it is)

As long as you have upgraded the sway bars to control the roll then the spring/shock combo can mostly spend its time controlling vertical changes.

From here it comes down to personal choice so if you weren't happy with the firmness then going up in spring rates is a fair thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...