Just Been Z32 Tuned

[stagefumer11]

Intresting, my mates stock r33 auto did 154rwkw on a roller dyno.. (Torque performance)

Another r32 gts-t, Rb25det, stock turbo, FMIC, Exhaust, Dumppipe, Stock injectors, Upgraded fuel pump. 211rwkw (14psi), Similar reults on shred motorsports duno and speedtechs..

Now with a g4, its at 230rwkwish, (less boost too)

[stagefumer11]

flame suit

[Rolls]

FMIC is a fantastic upgrade and I highly recommend it, coils are around $3-400 for an aftermarket or stock set, the aftermarket ones are no better than stock from what ive read, just new obviously so they dont shit themselves.

if the tune has been sorted properly you should be able to get massive heat soak on a 35c day and not have it ping, if it does ping then the ignition coolant temp trim tables are not set up and nor are the knock maps, if you get it dyno tuned I recommend getting it really hot , run it with the fan off even and get the knock ears on it, it'll totally kill the power but it will tell if its pinging or not, if it is pull more timing or set up the trim tables correctly.

will save your motor if you thrash it on a hot day.

gapping the plugs down to 0.8 can fix misfiring if the coils are borderline, it is recommended to try this first, when you change them check the coils for arcing and discolouration from overheating, a tell tale sign they stuffed, also you can get 0.8 gapped out of the packet if you ask for the right plugs.

Edited December 31, 2010 by Rolls

[senilykSkylines]

What is heat soak exactly?

Thanks stagefummer11, I thought i wasn't crazy. I definately think I should be getting 170ish with my current mods, more than 150 neway.

Rolls, I seriously do not want to go down the tuning line again at the moment. If I did, I would have to go with someone else or do a full dyno $tune$. My tuner seemed to think that it was fine and I can only trust him that he knows what he is doing because I don't. I am sure you know what your talking about but I 'm stuck in the middle wondering who to listen to?

I would rather get a fmic as I think it would be cheaper than doing another tune+dyno runs (Still retaining the smic).

When it pinged, apparently it was doing it slightly and not badly. It had loads of fuel going in so the pistons wouldn't melt at least

I'll take your advice and look to adjust those gaps and then maybe if the problem still exists change the coils.

Could it be that the gapping of the plugs and/or shotty coils are the problem for a lower power estimation?

[JonnoHR31]

ignore the 150, ITS A GUESS, a very rough one at that. no number on his computer could give him an exact power figure. and ignore the dyno sheet above, 240rwkw from a stock turbo isnt all that realistic, and whilst it does occasionally happen its nothing to get hung up on.

fix your plugs/coilpacks and do a $50 power run on a dyno anywhere just to put your mind at rest....

and heatsoak is when your intercooler (in this case, can be anything) gets heated up from the hot shit in the engine bay whilst sitting in traffic or not moving much for whatever reason. the cooler sucks up all this heat and does a lowsy job of cooling the intake air going through it until you get some speed back up and get some cool air flowing through it again.

Edited January 1, 2011 by JonnoHR31

[senilykSkylines]

ignore the 150, ITS A GUESS, a very rough one at that. no number on his computer could give him an exact power figure. and ignore the dyno sheet above, 240rwkw from a stock turbo isnt all that realistic, and whilst it does occasionally happen its nothing to get hung up on.

fix your plugs/coilpacks and do a $50 power run on a dyno anywhere just to put your mind at rest....

and heatsoak is when your intercooler (in this case, can be anything) gets heated up from the hot shit in the engine bay whilst sitting in traffic or not moving much for whatever reason. the cooler sucks up all this heat and does a lowsy job of cooling the intake air going through it until you get some speed back up and get some cool air flowing through it again.

cheers and thanks mate.

[Rolls]

What is heat soak exactly?

Thanks stagefummer11, I thought i wasn't crazy. I definately think I should be getting 170ish with my current mods, more than 150 neway.

Rolls, I seriously do not want to go down the tuning line again at the moment. If I did, I would have to go with someone else or do a full dyno $tune$. My tuner seemed to think that it was fine and I can only trust him that he knows what he is doing because I don't. I am sure you know what your talking about but I 'm stuck in the middle wondering who to listen to?

I would rather get a fmic as I think it would be cheaper than doing another tune+dyno runs (Still retaining the smic).

When it pinged, apparently it was doing it slightly and not badly. It had loads of fuel going in so the pistons wouldn't melt at least

I'll take your advice and look to adjust those gaps and then maybe if the problem still exists change the coils.

Could it be that the gapping of the plugs and/or shotty coils are the problem for a lower power estimation?

Heat soak is where everything in the engine bay (intercooler included) gets soaked with heat, basically means the intake air is much hotter than it should be and everything is just generally very hot, this will be the conditions that causing pinging if it is going to ping, it is the best way to test your tune is safe.

If he gave the car back to you with a tune that was pinging even slightly then he hasn't done his job, even small amounts of detonation are bad and will cause damage over time, not to mention the hotter the weather and the worse the fuel the more it will ping.

It is very hard to know who to trust when it comes to tuners, basically I won't go with anyone unless I can sit in the car during the process and see what they are doing, anything less just won't leave me with confidence.

Edited January 1, 2011 by Rolls

[senilykSkylines]

Heat soak is where everything in the engine bay (intercooler included) gets soaked with heat, basically means the intake air is much hotter than it should be and everything is just generally very hot, this will be the conditions that causing pinging if it is going to ping, it is the best way to test your tune is safe.

If he gave the car back to you with a tune that was pinging even slightly then he hasn't done his job, even small amounts of detonation are bad and will cause damage over time, not to mention the hotter the weather and the worse the fuel the more it will ping.

It is very hard to know who to trust when it comes to tuners, basically I won't go with anyone unless I can sit in the car during the process and see what they are doing, anything less just won't leave me with confidence.

I did sit in the car and drove it around while he was watching what was happening on the laptop. He told me that everything was good and no pinging at all... What more am I suppose to do? He claims to have tuned multiple skylines to 300rwkw or there abouts and out of many, only one has given up the ghost and he said that engine was sick anyway.

I adjusted the plugs today and it is still hesitating. It would hesitate at 3000-3500rpm and then perk up and then lag again. But not necessarily all the time.

The plugs looked pretty good, maybe a little yellow. No sign of detonating. The coils looked yellow through the plastic cover. Not sure how to tell whether they are worn or not. Do I take the plastic cover off?

Air filter came today will install tomorrow.

[Rolls]

"When it pinged, apparently it was doing it slightly and not badly. It had loads of fuel going in so the pistons wouldn't melt at leas"

I thought you were implying it was still pinging, my bad.

[senilykSkylines]

"When it pinged, apparently it was doing it slightly and not badly. It had loads of fuel going in so the pistons wouldn't melt at leas"

I thought you were implying it was still pinging, my bad.

It was pinging on the dyno run (my tuner wasn't there). So he test drove it to see what was wrong and why it would be pinging and he said it was fine when we road tested it.

[senilykSkylines]

Just put in the air filter today and noticed it to be quite perky and fun especially considering it is a hot sunny day and my wife had the A/C on. It will stay in 4th gear a lot longer than it did before. I have to almost floor it to get it into 3rd. LOL, I'm guessing cause she doesn't need to change down to get acceleration :b It is still only running 10ish psi so I will give it a bit more of a tweak.

The car seems to hesitate a little still, but seems better since changing the plugs and the air filter. I might put up with the coils till they die a little more.

Who knows what power it is doing, definitely faster than stock though

cheers,

Dan

[Messiah]

rest at ease if your running a little more boost and have atrimmed up tune you will be making a little more power. As you are now aware more power was never in doubt, just the exact figures and level of safety.

i beleive one way of testing the coils was to unscrew one and lift it from the valley slowly while turning it over. the measurement is basically how far the spark can jump before it no longer fires...

That said i dont know the exact procedure, hopefully someone here can clarify, and i'm not sure what an acceptable distance is.

Hopefully doing this test will let you guage just how arsed up you coils might be and will let you know if you need new ones now or later if at all.

As for fmic's, put one into your upgrade plan and dont plan on relying on the smic long term, even with water squirters etc etc. things like the later require you to constantly maintain fluids for operation and water cooling is primarily effective when a vehicle is moving.. it doesnt as much when stationary. a larger cooling surface area will always do a better job long term. so throw a water squirter together on the cheap short term... but dont rely on it long term.

all in all though it sounds like things are coming together. i think the only advice that really needs to be given is to modify your car with an aim ton enhance longevity, if you do this as your primary goal then normally small but noticeable power increases come with it without chasing big figures.

[senilykSkylines]

rest at ease if your running a little more boost and have atrimmed up tune you will be making a little more power. As you are now aware more power was never in doubt, just the exact figures and level of safety.

i beleive one way of testing the coils was to unscrew one and lift it from the valley slowly while turning it over. the measurement is basically how far the spark can jump before it no longer fires...

That said i dont know the exact procedure, hopefully someone here can clarify, and i'm not sure what an acceptable distance is.

Hopefully doing this test will let you guage just how arsed up you coils might be and will let you know if you need new ones now or later if at all.

As for fmic's, put one into your upgrade plan and dont plan on relying on the smic long term, even with water squirters etc etc. things like the later require you to constantly maintain fluids for operation and water cooling is primarily effective when a vehicle is moving.. it doesnt as much when stationary. a larger cooling surface area will always do a better job long term. so throw a water squirter together on the cheap short term... but dont rely on it long term.

all in all though it sounds like things are coming together. i think the only advice that really needs to be given is to modify your car with an aim ton enhance longevity, if you do this as your primary goal then normally small but noticeable power increases come with it without chasing big figures.

Just got back from a 3 day trip down south... Fun road trip, and I even was on the tail of a fast looking year 2000 + audi up the brynderwyns ; )

[senilykSkylines]

rest at ease if your running a little more boost and have atrimmed up tune you will be making a little more power. As you are now aware more power was never in doubt, just the exact figures and level of safety.

i beleive one way of testing the coils was to unscrew one and lift it from the valley slowly while turning it over. the measurement is basically how far the spark can jump before it no longer fires...

That said i dont know the exact procedure, hopefully someone here can clarify, and i'm not sure what an acceptable distance is.

Hopefully doing this test will let you guage just how arsed up you coils might be and will let you know if you need new ones now or later if at all.

As for fmic's, put one into your upgrade plan and dont plan on relying on the smic long term, even with water squirters etc etc. things like the later require you to constantly maintain fluids for operation and water cooling is primarily effective when a vehicle is moving.. it doesnt as much when stationary. a larger cooling surface area will always do a better job long term. so throw a water squirter together on the cheap short term... but dont rely on it long term.

all in all though it sounds like things are coming together. i think the only advice that really needs to be given is to modify your car with an aim ton enhance longevity, if you do this as your primary goal then normally small but noticeable power increases come with it without chasing big figures.

Just got back from a 3 day trip down south... Fun road trip, and I even was on the tail of a fast looking year 2000 + audi up the brynderwyns ; )

[senilykSkylines]

Had it dynoed at 168rwkw. Problems with the SMIC getting too hot and messing with the performance and knock sensor.

[SoFreshSoClean]

Sounds about right, auto's pull a little bit less than manuals

[Beer Baron]

get it back on a dyno mate. you told us before you had it on the dyno and it was pinging (but for some reason you don't have a power figure from that?). then you took it to a mate who drove it on the road with his lap top hooked up and told you it's not pinging. completely different conditions. of course on a fang around the street it may not ping but loaded up on the dyno (as it will be in 4th and 5th gear) it pings. having 1 big fan in front of the car is normal for most dyno operators. get it back on the dyno and find out if the tune really is ok or not. it will also give you the magic power figure you want. the tuners guess of 150kw is just as random as the bloke who sent you the mail order tune saying 190kw and I could guess and say 160kw and it has just as much relevance as those guesses do as that is all they are. guesses. use a dyno. it's a tool used to measure power at the wheels. that is what it does (well that and simulate road driving so that cars can be tested and tuned safely and conveniently).

[Beer Baron]

edit: just read your post. well done. now you have a figure and now hopefully any pinging (if it was pinging) has been tuned out. enjoy.

[senilykSkylines]

edit: just read your post. well done. now you have a figure and now hopefully any pinging (if it was pinging) has been tuned out. enjoy.

cheers,

It is pinging a little but the knock sensor is kicking in to prevent it. Currently we are talking about this in another thread, my flat spot thread... I just wanted to tie off loose ends here for anyone reading, that is why I commented here about my power output. The guy that tuned it on the dyno (recently) is the guy that did the mail order and the road test initially (He didn't do the dyno run where it first pinged).

His dyno he used was the "velocity" one in Auckland which had a proper cooling room (unlike the first one) that literally sucked air through the room from huge fans at the back as well as fans on the front of the car... mean