Just Been Z32 Tuned

Raki_King · December 23, 2010

Apparently because mine has airbags it needs a cert from my understanding. A front mount will influence the frontal impact of the vehicle apparently. Out of curiosity do you have airbags?

I certainly do, I have an 1998 R34 with driver and passenger airbags...

Thelen · December 27, 2010

Why do people keep mentioning 150rwkw as a 'good' increase over stock lol? I thought 150rwkw WAS basically stock. Even an auto 33 should be getting around that let alone a manual? :S

PaulosECR33 · December 27, 2010

My tuner told me that fmic would change the weight of the car and it is things like that which would mean possibly needing to get it certified. Also I went to put a hicas lock bar in and I got told that it would cost $400 (certification fee) from mag and turbo warehouse : /

I hope you are right... I would definately consider getting one then. I'll check it out.

cheers,

why do you need a hicas lock bar, why spend money mucking around with that when your focusing on your "budget" 190rwkw goal?

Edited December 27, 2010 by PaulosECR33

senilykSkylines · December 27, 2010

why do you need a hicas lock bar, why spend money mucking around with that when your focusing on your "budget" 190rwkw goal?

Long story mate. The cars handling was rubbish and freaky on any kind of bumpy road. The back would kick out to the side. I took it to a shock "specialist" who tested the rear shocks and said it was fine so I thought it must be the 4WS playing up (So I got a lock bar). Turned out that the left rear shock was stuffed when someone else looked at it.

Why do people keep mentioning 150rwkw as a 'good' increase over stock lol? I thought 150rwkw WAS basically stock. Even an auto 33 should be getting around that let alone a manual? :S

True, I agree.

They do about 135rwkw stock but dynos vary. For me, I am a little ticked off that some guys on here get 180 ish rwkw from similar mods and on stock ecu. I've done more than a little to gain more power such as turning the boost up 10psi- 11psi and had a Z32 computer tuned for 190rwkw (not dyno tuned), oh and a turbo back 3" exhaust, and a walbro fuel pump.

I am now getting a K&N panel filter, hoping that my stock filter is extremely dirty and choking the car and thus finding my reason for being 40rwkw short of a humble goal. I would be happy with 170-180... but 150? I would have spent over a grand to get 10-15rwkw? I realise that I will need a front mount probably to get near the 200 mark...

Mind you my tuner may have been wrong when he road tested it. He thought it was running about 150.

Cars for ya ay? lol. Process has still been fun though and car is definitely better for torque, if anything.

cheers,

Dan

Edited December 27, 2010 by senilykSkylines

Rolls · December 28, 2010

Why do people keep mentioning 150rwkw as a 'good' increase over stock lol? I thought 150rwkw WAS basically stock. Even an auto 33 should be getting around that let alone a manual? :S

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock, exhaust and boost with no tune will see 140-150 sometimes.

They do about 135rwkw stock but dynos vary. For me, I am a little ticked off that some guys on here get 180 ish rwkw from similar mods and on stock ecu. I've done more than a little to gain more power such as turning the boost up 10psi- 11psi and had a Z32 computer tuned for 190rwkw (not dyno tuned), oh and a turbo back 3" exhaust, and a walbro fuel pump.

it is just a number mate, get over it seriously, I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions. Is it currently fast enough? If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else.

Edited December 28, 2010 by Rolls

senilykSkylines · December 28, 2010

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock 110 is what many N/A's make... or so was my understanding :S, I have owned an N/A and the det was MUCH faster at stock. it is just a number mate, get over it seriously, <div> </div><div>true. </div><div> </div><div>I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions.</div><div> </div><div>80hp@engine = approx 40rwkw... big difference, that is more of a difference between the det and the N/A? </div><div> </div><div>Is it currently fast enough?</div><div> </div><div>yes and no. </div><div> </div><div>If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else</div><div> </div><div>I have started upgrading, yet money doesn't grow on trees, lol. So the general consensus is that 150rwkw (Approx 15-20rwkw gain) is quite reasonable from a tuned computer, running approximately 10psi, walbro GSS42 pump (not that it would make much difference) and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). All in excess of a grand spent. man I sound like a win-ger. <div> </div><div>Just hate the thought of wasting over a grand for a meagre increase in hp. I would never had done so, should it be such a little increase. cheers mate.

</div>

Edited December 28, 2010 by senilykSkylines

senilykSkylines · December 28, 2010

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock

110 is what many N/A's make... or so was my understanding :S, I have owned an N/A and the det was MUCH faster at stock.

it is just a number mate, get over it seriously,

true.

I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions.

80hp@engine = approx 40rwkw... big difference, that is more of a difference between the det and the N/A?

Is it currently fast enough?

yes and no.

If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else

I have started upgrading, yet money doesn't grow on trees, lol.

So the general consensus is that 150rwkw (Approx 15-20rwkw gain) is quite reasonable from a tuned computer, running approximately 10psi, walbro GSS42 pump (not that it would make much difference) and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). All in excess of a grand spent.

man I sound like a win-ger.

Just hate the thought of wasting over a grand for a meagre increase in hp. I would never had done so, should it be such a little increase.

cheers mate.

LOL computer having a mental.

PaulosECR33 · December 29, 2010

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock 110 is what many N/A's make... or so was my understanding :S, I have owned an N/A and the det was MUCH faster at stock. it is just a number mate, get over it seriously,

true.

I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions.

80hp@engine = approx 40rwkw... big difference, that is more of a difference between the det and the N/A?

Is it currently fast enough?

yes and no.

If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else

I have started upgrading, yet money doesn't grow on trees, lol. So the general consensus is that 150rwkw (Approx 15-20rwkw gain) is quite reasonable from a tuned computer, running approximately 10psi, walbro GSS42 pump (not that it would make much difference) and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). All in excess of a grand spent. man I sound like a win-ger.

Just hate the thought of wasting over a grand for a meagre increase in hp. I would never had done so, should it be such a little increase.

cheers mate.

LOL computer having a mental.

i think you are going to be disapointed mate, i had 174rwkw with a trust fmic, high flow cat a 3" cat back on 11 or 12 psi tuned on standard ecu, and im sure heaps of ppl will agree that the first basic mods are quite important for later and they can cost alot more than 1K, and i honestly felt that a pod filter made absolutly no difference compared to a good panel in standard air box. so at least your getting a panel filter

(fair enough about the lock bar)

Edited December 29, 2010 by PaulosECR33

senilykSkylines · December 29, 2010

i think you are going to be disapointed mate, i had 174rwkw with a trust fmic, high flow cat a 3" cat back on 11 or 12 psi tuned on standard ecu, and im sure heaps of ppl will agree that the first basic mods are quite important for later and they can cost alot more than 1K, and i honestly felt that a pod filter made absolutly no difference compared to a good panel in standard air box. so at least your getting a panel filter

(fair enough about the lock bar)

I am realising the fmic is the key. Sites like these I was getting my ideas from: R33 tuning results. My car must just be different...

Yeah, you really need a good heat shield if the pod will work. My K&N panel filter is in the mail now

She definitely drives better with what I have done so far, still loads of fun. Just not what was sold to me.

cheers guys,

Edited December 29, 2010 by senilykSkylines

Messiah · December 30, 2010

Assuming all hardware is in good condition (fuel pump coils etc etc) a quality ecu + tune, exhaust+cat+intake and a stable 12 psi will net you 180ish from a previously stock rb25det.

That said this retains the smic... so that power cannot be taken as always safe and stable as on hot days your gonna suffer.

glad to see you have peice of mind now, its a good feeling...

For further work... look at adding to the supporting components (coils fmic, tunable ecu etc etc) to ensure that any power can be made safely and reliably, then add power making components.

JonnoHR31 · December 30, 2010

did it actually make 150rwkw on the dyno? or is that the guy who did the chip guessing? sounds like your very confused, also theres no possible way to have a mail order chip set to "190rwkw", its a guess at best as theres heaps of different factors that determine how much power an engine will make with a set tune.

if it did make 150rwkw then so be it, thats not too low for the mods you have, its about right. if you want more power your gonna have to start spending more money, and if you do your research first you can spend wisely and not waste a heap of money on pointless shit.

btw, regardless of how hot the cooler got on the dyno a well setup car with a decent tune wont ping.

mystery_kid · December 30, 2010

delete post

Edited December 30, 2010 by mystery_kid

senilykSkylines · December 30, 2010

did it actually make 150rwkw on the dyno? or is that the guy who did the chip guessing? sounds like your very confused, also theres no possible way to have a mail order chip set to "190rwkw", its a guess at best as theres heaps of different factors that determine how much power an engine will make with a set tune.

if it did make 150rwkw then so be it, thats not too low for the mods you have, its about right. if you want more power your gonna have to start spending more money, and if you do your research first you can spend wisely and not waste a heap of money on pointless shit.

btw, regardless of how hot the cooler got on the dyno a well setup car with a decent tune wont ping.

Nah it didn't make a 150 on the dyno. The tuner took it for a road test with his laptop hooked in etc and said it was running about 150 he thought... so it was an estimate by him I guess. I'm not the knowledgable one here so I took his word for it. We made the car work on the road test and he said there was no pinging at all... everything was running sweet. The same tuner has used the dyno room (the one I used when it pinged, my tuner was absent when I dynoed it) on another car in the past and he said they had to stop testing every 10-15min to let the car cool down (Or somethin like that).

The tuner also told me that he did the SAME tune on another same engine and got 190rwkw... that is what he told me. He reconed the stock air filter was letting me down and the smic. I will change the air filter and see what happens. The day we were road testing the car it was a wet rainy day that was humid and warm but not hot.

---Messiah---

The Z32 ecu is tunable hence why I got it

A side NOTE:

I'm noticing the car hesitating on acceleration sometimes almost like a clutch slipping (I realise it is an auto lol). I am guessing I need to adjust the gaps on the sparkies to .8mm is it?

Could it be that there is one of my problems?

Rolls · December 30, 2010

Most will only make around 110-120kw stock 110 is what many N/A's make... or so was my understanding :S, I have owned an N/A and the det was MUCH faster at stock. it is just a number mate, get over it seriously, true. I REALLY doubt it drives any different to these '190kw' versions. 80hp@engine = approx 40rwkw... big difference, that is more of a difference between the det and the N/A? Is it currently fast enough? yes and no. If so then who cares? If not then start upgrading? A dyno is a tuning tool, nothing else I have started upgrading, yet money doesn't grow on trees, lol. So the general consensus is that 150rwkw (Approx 15-20rwkw gain) is quite reasonable from a tuned computer, running approximately 10psi, walbro GSS42 pump (not that it would make much difference) and 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat). All in excess of a grand spent. man I sound like a win-ger.
Just hate the thought of wasting over a grand for a meagre increase in hp. I would never had done so, should it be such a little increase.

cheers mate.

I don't know of any stock rb25des that make 110kw at the wheels, maybe with a cam and a tune they might but itd be stretching it. I dont think youd see more than 90-100kw

150kw is just a number mate, you should have gotten a before and after dyno to see what the increase was, who knows it might have only read 110kw before you tuned it?

The 40kw is not a big difference because they are almost certainly making similar power levels and it is just different temps, dynos and other things making the figure vary so much.

I would say your figure is normal, get a FMIC with 12psi and a retune and you might see 170kw, but end of the day its a stock turbo so you wont ever see massive results. All that $1k was required for any future mods anyway so it might seem like a lot for a little gain, but if you want to push 220kw you'll need all of those things anyway.

Performance cars are not cheap, if you wanted a 200kw+ car you should sell it and buy one, it will never be cheap doing it yourself. That is what I did, traded in my 150kw R31 for $9k and got a 240kw R32 with a forged rb25 for 12k, only cost me $4k by the time I got it on the road, imagine if I tried to do it from scratch, would have cost $20k+!!

edit: If its auto then that explains the lower power.

Also the slipping feeling, do the revs flare up like a slipping clutch or does it just lose power? could be the typical coil packs giving in and causing the annoying as all hell stutter and misfire.

Edited December 30, 2010 by Rolls

JonnoHR31 · December 30, 2010

Nah it didn't make a 150 on the dyno. The tuner took it for a road test with his laptop hooked in etc and said it was running about 150 he thought... so it was an estimate by him I guess. I'm not the knowledgable one here so I took his word for it. We made the car work on the road test and he said there was no pinging at all... everything was running sweet. The same tuner has used the dyno room (the one I used when it pinged, my tuner was absent when I dynoed it) on another car in the past and he said they had to stop testing every 10-15min to let the car cool down (Or somethin like that).

The tuner also told me that he did the SAME tune on another same engine and got 190rwkw... that is what he told me. He reconed the stock air filter was letting me down and the smic. I will change the air filter and see what happens. The day we were road testing the car it was a wet rainy day that was humid and warm but not hot.

its impossible to tell how much power its making on the road. so hes guessed and given you a rough number and now your complaining because its not as much as you'd hoped. from what you can tell on the road it could be making anywhere from 100rwkw to 200rwkw.

same tune on another engine making 190rwkw doesnt mean much, you could use the same tune and only make 100rwkw if something else isnt the same. every car is different and every dyno is different, the only power figures you should worry about is a ROUGH idea of where you wanna be. ignore how much power it actually does make and how much other cars make, unless theres a massive difference then theres nothing to worry about.

if you do want more power, best bet is to post up everything you have, how much power you want and what your willing to spend. then people can help you get an idea of what you need

senilykSkylines · December 30, 2010

Hey Rolls,

150kw is just a number mate, you should have gotten a before and after dyno to see what the increase was, who knows it might have only read 110kw before you tuned it?

I do have a rough idea of what people get on a dyno. I have spent some time reading through both the det and de performance results pages here on SA.

The 40kw is not a big difference because they are almost certainly making similar power levels and it is just different temps, dynos and other things making the figure vary so much.

Yup. On a cold night it does feel a lot peppier.

It's more fun to do it up yourself I think. Better the devil you know than the devil you don't know Just that I haven't got the gains suggested by many other people, though it sounds like I may be closer to those marks as a I thought. Temp does have a lot to do with it.

Also the slipping feeling, do the revs flare up like a slipping clutch or does it just lose power? could be the typical coil packs giving in and causing the annoying as all hell stutter and misfire

Nah the revs don't go up, it just hesitates- lose power. The tuner checked the coil packs when we road tested it and said everything looks in pretty good condition and no cracks. So I am thinking sparkies. But you never know, a coil might be going. He didn't mention any hesitation on the road test, it seems to be a little irreguler, but I notice it only since the tune.

Jonno,

its impossible to tell how much power its making on the road. so hes guessed and given you a rough number and now your complaining because its not as much as you'd hoped. from what you can tell on the road it could be making anywhere from 100rwkw to 200rwkw.

My tuner said (Before we road tested it) in summer I might be doing 170rwkw with my mods because of my little smic but in winter he said it would be up around 190rwkw (I'm happy with that, I would be happy with 170ish but 150?. But since we have road tuned it, it came to his idea of 150rwkw. He did point out a figure on the screen? He said something about "70" which made him thought it was running about 150? I don't think it was just a feeling and a guestimate. But I don't know.

same tune on another engine making 190rwkw doesnt mean much, you could use the same tune and only make 100rwkw if something else isnt the same.

Hence why I am getting a panel filter

Edited December 30, 2010 by senilykSkylines

wasnt me · December 30, 2010

The problem is the guy tuning the car only guessed the power it COULD be making, Take the car to a dyno and pay $50 for a power run then report back to us. then you will know if its down on HP or not.

Messiah · December 30, 2010

Nah the revs don't go up, it just hesitates- lose power. The tuner checked the coil packs when we road tested it and said everything looks in pretty good condition and no cracks. So I am thinking sparkies. But you never know, a coil might be going. He didn't mention any hesitation on the road test, it seems to be a little irreguler, but I notice it only since the tune.

Ok if revs arent flaring it is as suggested most likely an ignition issue.

Are the coil packs the originals?

Your right, 0.8mm is about what you'd gap your plugs at, that gapping can handle any boost you might put through a stock turbo with little issue.

Now with that said you mentioned that your only running stock boost, so plug gapping shouldnt have a major impact yet.

Despite your tuner checking to see how the coil packs look, they can be a bit knackered even if they're not cracked and old looking. Mine looked pretty good for their age but they didnt muster much grunt to make a good spark.

So under heavy load from about 3-4k rpm it would miss and loose power. I ordered some split fires from japan and alls good.

from the sounds of it, all you need to do is sort out this ignition issue, then wind the boost up to maybe 12 psi and give it a tune and dyno run. That should tell you what your car is capable of, then wind the boost back to 10 psi for day to day driving until you tgrab a few things to keep it all cool.

Rolls · December 31, 2010

If the coil packs are the originals then they almost certainly are on there way out even if they look perfect, pretty much all of them shit themselves especially in hot weather.

It would certainly be a worthwhile upgrade for the future, hesitation is almost always the coil packs giving a poor spark or missing completely. I assume its around 4500-5500 rpm? as this is peak torque and where it will happen.

senilykSkylines · December 31, 2010

If the coil packs are the originals then they almost certainly are on there way out even if they look perfect, pretty much all of them shit themselves especially in hot weather.

It would certainly be a worthwhile upgrade for the future, hesitation is almost always the coil packs giving a poor spark or missing completely. I assume its around 4500-5500 rpm? as this is peak torque and where it will happen.

3-4k it tends to do it and maybe even higher in the rev range. I am actually running 10psi and spiking to 11-12 already (I had a little boost gage leak :b) And Yes they are the original packs from my understanding. Would I need aftermarket ones or just new stock ones?

I might try to change the spark gaps anyway and see if it fixes it... and if not I'll look into the coils. How expensive are coils?

If the coils aren't giving me a good charge then that could be why my power is down. I do not want to get it tuned again, I have just spent money getting it tuned to how it is. I shouldn't need a tune after changing coils, surely?

I would like to avoid getting a fmic if I can. I am wanting to set up a water spray kit to keep it cool and avoid thrashing it on really hot days.

Before I dyno it I'll sort out the missfiring and I will be very picky on which dyno I run lest it over heats the little intercooler and starts pinging again.

Thanks for your help guys.

cheers

Dan

P.S. I'm not wanting to get into 400hp+ kind of stuff. I just want to tweak the car a bit with what money I have.

Edited December 31, 2010 by senilykSkylines

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