Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was talking to my boss about the electric fans just yesterday, asking him how hard it was to set it up. He reckons it was a piece of piss and he even told me that I could have the brand new fan out the back that he never got round to fitting on his old mazda.

Just gotta make sure that when you set up the electrics, you make them trigger off your A/C switch and also from your adjustable thermometer.

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-690303
Share on other sites

yeah i think i'm going to get one myself. the clutch fan packed it in so i took it off which means that all i've got left is the little thermo on the front which seems to be doing well so far. gotta drive with one eye on the temp until i fit a thermo tho

if you can fit a thermo to make good use of the factory shroud it should work efficiently with one fan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-690346
Share on other sites

Two things to look out for:

1. You have to set up a system that forces the air to go thru the radiator. Otherwise, the air simply passes out underneath the car and the engine overheats.

2. You need to re-wire the small fan out front of the A/C radiator. This is a thermo fan, and only comes on when the engine gets too hot. Without cooling air (normally provided by the standard clutch fan), the A/C gas over pressurises, and it sounds like a BOV going off.

IMHO, the power gains (couple of kW) are not worth the headaches.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-690611
Share on other sites

where do you get these thermo fans from. I looked on the davies craig site and a 16 inch is over 300 bux (for all the 16 inch kits). Thats a bit much don't u think, I want to upgrade to clear future piping but does anyone kno of any other good fans that are a little cheaper.

Also couldn't u hook up the wiring so that the fan will only work when the thermo opens. That would be good for those cold morining starts, coz the clutch fan always spins.

rom.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-691060
Share on other sites

I know a fair few of you are sceptical of thermo's, but all the big semi's run an electic clutched Horton fans, and if setup correctly from the start have no problems with them what so ever. I was thinking of getting a shroud off a car with a similair size radiator and modifying it to suit.

Sumo

P.S. Only problem I have is how do they stop the thermo's from overspinning at higher speeds?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-691529
Share on other sites

Ok I have now installed a 14inch daviescraig fan, brought from Burson auto parts, cost me $120 but i get cost from there.

It works great, you can also get a themro switch which you place in the radiator housing and once it is up to the temp you want it to it will kick in, takes a while to adjust but it works nicely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-691695
Share on other sites

My 16 inch Davies Craig hasn't missed a beat in over 12 months.

Temps are stable, engine responce up a little, and had no problems.

As said before, you need to re-wire the AC fan to come on as soon as you turn the AC on - I've got a thread on this so do a search.

I'm running the thermo switch as well and have found that in winter it pretty much never turns on with normal driving, and only comes on occasisionally when stopped still for 5+ minutes.

Summer it'll come on for 1-2 minutes then stays off for 3-4 minutes.

One thing I found with the Davies Craig kit is that the fuse holder you get with the kit is CRAP... Replace it straight away with a good quality one that can handle heaps of current. Mine melted after about 3 months !!

The 16 inch version draws 19 amps while just spinning, on startup it'll peak upto 30 amps.

The only reason why I ditched my old one clutch fan was cause I thought it was stuffed, and I got the DC 16 kit cheap. I later found out that it wasn't the clutch fan that was stuffed !!!

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34468-thermo-fans/#findComment-691761
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...