Jump to content
SAU Community

My k's aint clicking over ;)

gatty

By gatty,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

gatty Mentor

gatty

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

Well the other day i filled up at a shell - was driving down the road and thought i'd check how many k's i can get outta a tank - so i hit the trip metre reset.....as soon as i did the trip metre stoped working (still sitting @ 0000000) and my main KM's odometre is 'stuck' just as it's changing to 64200 km's

i could be happy about this - keeping the k's low etc, but iw ant to service reguarly and keep the car totally legit! I am thinking perhaps a spring has come loose or something?

I know nothing about how they work etc - so i have no fuc|;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34474-my-ks-aint-clicking-over/
Share on other sites
sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

Same happened to me. You are looking at 90 dollars to fix it which involves taking it out and finding a place near to you or about $100 - $150 on buying a replacement odometer.

Its only worth fixing if you can spare the time. I think it's much better idea to replace it if you can find one with similar K's on it.

Oh and they break because they've been wound back... which you knew since you have a 93 R33 with HAHAH 64200kms on it ;)

gatty Mentor

gatty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i fixed it

the problem wasn't pushing it in - when i pushed it in, it got stuck in - so i pulled it and it clicked then it's working again now..

you guys think my odometre has been wound back? i guy i know looked at the seal around the box and it seemed to have not been tampered with - the car was brought over here decmeber last year and had 4 k's on it after comliance - japan is a small place :)

PTR33 Proficient

PTR33

Posted
Posted
you guys think my odometre has been wound back? i guy i know looked at the seal around the box and it seemed to have not been tampered with - the car was brought over here decmeber last year and had 4 k's on it after comliance - japan is a small place :)
My '98 had 66,000km on it when I picked it up.... so it can't be that small.

How worn is your interior? have to be pretty schmick of the k's are genuine.

09ONE_32 Collaborator

09ONE_32

Posted
Posted

Another way to help tell if the car has had k's wound back is to check if the factory bushes are still in place in the suspension. These won't last 100,000km so if they are still there and not aftermarket items there is a good chance that the kms are genuine. However they could have been replaced with factory items, but why would you if you can get better aftermarket ones for about the same price.

GTR R35 Proficient

GTR R35

Posted
Posted

My 1988 VR4 had 58,000 on the clock and they are original km's as the car is immaculant inside and only dirty under the bonnet. I used this Simple Green stuff and now it looks brand new. The body looks like it lived its whole 16 years outside and been washed in a auto car wash 1 million times, but you can tell if the odo has been fiddled with, you cannot hide wear and tear.

It has always worried me about imports and odo fiddling, it looks like it does happen often from some of the posts on this thread.

Mal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...