Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Roughly a year ago I completed a motor conversion into my 4 door 34, which I also converted to manual. I used a neo 25det from a wgc34 stagea (automatic) Which runs beautifully....

My problem is up until a few weeks ago i was running straight of the actuator 5psi. I now bought an older style electronic boost controller and have upped it to 7psi which also runs mint. Now...the minute I go over 7psi i get the typical skyline 5000-6000 miss but in my endeavours to fix it I have come up empty handed...

I have done all the usual, New walbro fuel pump, gapped plugs to 0.8, running wasted spark kit, checked all lines for leaks etc...and I have also spent weeks looking over topics here and still have nothing,

I was wondering if you guys might shed some light on the situation.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344895-r34-conversion-help/
Share on other sites

Whether its the usual slight hesitation or severe R&R it can be fixed by getting a Nistune chip and a good tune. Wasted spark is not popluar these days - was there anything actually wrong with your coils?

Thanks for the replies guys, my mate has the exactally the same mods as me in his 34 and it runs perfectly with no missing at all.. I dont have coils due to the fact that I am running the wasted spark kit,

I am not hitting r and r and I am looking at possibly nistune in the future but an identical car with identical mods and mine missfiring, and his isnt leads me to believe that this is curable without nistune for now...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
    • @Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?
×
×
  • Create New...