Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just bought myself a freshly built rb30 for a steal up here in Canada. I have a few questions about it however

The motor still has M11 head studs but I think I will need to switch to M12 to be safe. the block is o-ringed with a custom copper gasket so I'm not sure how much head sealing is going to be an issue. Is the upgrade to M12 needed or just recommended?

I'm also looking for 4wd adapter and I can't figure out which one to use. The oil pickup is going to be a pain because I have a trust extended sump. If it's easier I might just switch to a 4wd adapter and new sump from the same manufacturer. That way it will bolt up no problem. What is the best route to go here? I'm planning on running 700-800whp and the car is mostly a track car but I don't think I need a block brace, Is this correct?

I'm running a OS Giken twin plate clutch right now but I'm not sure if it will deal with the torque of an RB30 so I might have to upgrade. Anybody have any experience with the OSG twin on a high power RB30?

I'm not sure if the shop that built the motor has much experience with RB30's. They have built a lot of motors but I'm wondering what kind of mods are needed for circuit work. Opening up oil returns, etc, etc. If a pro RB30 builder is willing to advise on this build I would gladly offer up some money in return and of course not divulge there tips. I know this is unlikely but a guys gotta try.

Here is the mods on the car at the moment (I might be leaving out some)

BNR32

Koyo rad w/ twin electric fans

HKS oil cooler

Tomei cam gears

ATI damper

270/270 10.8 procams

Extensively ported head (Quench pads retained)

Cosworth valve springs

xs engineering throttle seals

HKS bar and plate intercooler

Custom t4 twin scroll manifold with single 60mm tial WG

GT4088r

4" stainless exhaust

Vipec V44

Greddy rail w/ 800cc injectors

x2 bosch 044 with large surge tank and Tomei lift pump

HFS-6 water/meth injection kit with direct port x6

HKS Boost controller EVC 6

HKS SSQV II

OS Giken twin plate clutch

OS giken 1-5 gears

ACPT Carbon driveshaft

4.375 diffs

ATS Carbon 1.5 way front diff

Factory rear diff reshimmed

That is all I can think of right now but I'm sure I'm missing a few things.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Edited by Super_Dude
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344994-my-rb30-build/
Share on other sites

Rob from Rips

http://www.ripsltd.com/

is very generous with his advice although it would be only fair to buy the sump and adaptor from him!

Alternatively you could source them from Dick at

http://www.hytechengines.co.nz/

or there are a couple of Aussie suppliers I believe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344994-my-rb30-build/#findComment-5559477
Share on other sites

So I think I'm going to use the Hi octane platinum 4wd adapter/block brace and Hi octane race oil pan.

I'm going to keep the M11 studs but was wondering if there is any stronger options than just the regular ARP studs?

I'm also going to get a new clutch seeing as I'm pretty sure my OS giken twin won't last long. I'm probably just going to wait until a good used triple plate appears in the classifieds.

My GT4088r is also being replaced this winter by a new EFR8374.

I can't wait to drive this thing in the spring.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344994-my-rb30-build/#findComment-5560759
Share on other sites

regular M11 bolts can handle 600hp, so 'normal' arp studs will be fine, unless youre aiming for 40psi, then there are L19 ARP studs,

but i really think thats overkill.

id be looking at the RIPS gear personally, not to say that there is anything wrong with youre choice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344994-my-rb30-build/#findComment-5560973
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...