Damn Hicas Bar!

[TurboDoseBro]

Guys i've been trying for 3 days getting the HICAS system off for the replacement of the ISC HICAS lock bar. I've managed to crack one side of the tie rods (with the square nut) and the other one is damn impossible. I've tried using a spanner to hold down the flat parts of the little metal rod inside the HICAS but it's not strong enough and i'm slowly rounding it. Anyone got tips and tricks to share please?

Edited November 21, 2010 by TyresBro

[Panko]

Try grab one side with bench grip or something. That would be easier. When I was doing mine I didn't have the bench grip so I pulled the whole thing

out with the help of my brother hold the steering rack on the ground, use a big shifter and him holding the shifter in place, and kick the shifter really hard . The impact would make it easier to crack.

Hope this helps, where about are you in SE ?

[TurboDoseBro]

Hey mate thanks for being the first to reply. I'm located in Dandenong area. Very close to giving up it's taking all my time.

I've tried those metal vice grips ( http://vetquip.com/products/Orthopaedic%20...Grip%2020cm.gif ) + a spanner to hold it in place since it's kinda rounded off. Too slippery as well. The HICAS unit has been remounted with the 2 bolts so i didn't need to hold it.

When people say shifter, does that mean a spanner?

Edited November 21, 2010 by TyresBro

[boostn0199]

put some wd40 on it and spanner and big breaker bar did it for me.

[Panko]

Shifter means the adjustable open end spanner, I can come and give you a hand if you need, just pm me

I remember disconnecting those tie rod was doing my head in as well... you are not alone !

I live in Noble Park. Not that far away from you.

Edited November 21, 2010 by Panko

[TurboDoseBro]

boostn1099: tried WD40 (RP7 to be exact). Didn't need breaker bar to crack the first one so I don't think it's necessary. I still bit the dust lol.

Panko: Sure bro, when are you usually free? This won't go unrewarded. Also yeah i've been using 2 shifters then...trying...

Edited November 21, 2010 by TyresBro

[Panko]

After work on Wednesday how's that sound? I finish work around 6 pm ish sometimes earlier

[TurboDoseBro]

If anyone else has suggestions please do say so. The car is still on ramps

[Touge Kyousou]

If you get a good enough grip on the nut with the tool, you can then use a low scissor jack to push/move the tool to break the probably rusted/seized contact/threads of the bolt. Or a breaker bar/bar extension etc but i would prefer using the scissor jack to move the tool as it will have alot more control - you are under a car after all. Have fun

Edit - and wd40 that sucker like mentioned above.

Edited November 24, 2010 by Touge Kyousou

[Munkyb0y]

i remember doing mine, and they were a bitch too.

as long as the hicas is still bolted in place, just get a nice tight spanner onto the nut (or vice grips if the nut is fcked), and then tap the spanner with a hammer in the direction you need to loosen it. The shock from the hit (maybe a few hits) usually helps crack the seal. it worked for me.

and remember this when you're doing your camber arms you'll need it!

oh yeah, and wd40!! as mentioned above

Edited November 24, 2010 by Munkyb0y

[mad082]

a tool worth trying would be a stilson. plumbers use them. as you push on the handle it tightens the grip of it. they are a bit bulky though so you need a bit of room around the bolt/nut in question. i have found them handy in the past.

stilson:

[TurboDoseBro]

The thing is i'm not having troubles with loosening the bolt, i'm having trouble with the darn grip on the bolt. Have tried the spanner and hammer a few times but the whole unit just keeps turning guess i'll try some more. Will also try the stilson, thanks guys much appreciated.

[TurboDoseBro]

Guys sorry it's me again. Tried using stilsons, can't get a proper grip on the mildly rounded nut as there isn't enough surface area. Tried hammering the 4 sided nut, both by itself, and tightening the loosened nut and trying. Still can't get it loose. Don't know how you guys make it sound so easy. Called up R E Customs and they wanted $160 to remove the HICAS even though I had the bar already I've tried so long already, it wouldn't be worth it if I had to pay that in the end...

This is becoming SOS. Please help.

Edited December 5, 2010 by TyresBro

[olloSKYLINEollo]

If you have the space you can get a blow torch and heat the bolt up from the thread and try to remove it have done this a ton of times at work and works 99%of the time. if that doesn't work try welding a bolt onto the nut so you can hit the bolt welded to the nut with a hammer but once again only if you have enough room to do so . if you can weld a bolt to the nut be careful not to fuse the nut to the bolt that your trying to remove said nut from. hope any of this helps

[TurboDoseBro]

Thing is I don't have any of those equipments let alone experience with them. I saw a post from a forum member who had welded a blob on the other side with the tie rod removed to get a proper grip on the damn thing. I would if I could...