Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ever wondered what the small round plastic thing is at the far left side of the front windscreen demister is?

it's a sun load sensor for the climate control. when you hit econ instead of A/C it measures the direct sunlight and works hard when needed rather than just all the time.

Heater or A/C not working well?

Climate Control Diagnostics

if you turn your ignition on and then hold the off button on the climate control for 5 seconds you will enter diagnostic mode.

hit the temp increase button (red triangle) to test all sensors. if any sensor is giving wrong readings it will give you a code.

20 means nothing is wrong and 21 through to 27 will give you the sensor that is faulty.

keep in mind, you must have direct sunlight on the sun load sensor for it to diagnose properly (otherwise it assumes the sun load sensor is stuffed)

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

ever wanted the climate control to try harder to cool or heat?

to enter full cold mode, turn the temp down to 18 degrees then hold the cold button. (figured this out accidentally)

do the same for full heat but turn it up to 32 then hold the hot button.

ever wondered where the climate control takes the interior temp reading from?

just right of the ash tray there are little slots in the plastic. that's where.

whilst moving if you turn the ignition off and on you lose all wheel drive until you stop.(fairly well known but maybe you didn't know)

any more cool stuff, please let me know! i love finding these things out!

  • 1 month later...

Thanks for this. Very interesting. Bloody 1990 cars shoulda been make in 1997 or something lol.

Can this sort the problem of not being able to increase temp? Soemthimes I can only decrease temp and not increase (when I press the red arrow it does nothing).

Edited by TyresBro
  • 5 months later...

Thanks for this. Very interesting. Bloody 1990 cars shoulda been make in 1997 or something lol.

Can this sort the problem of not being able to increase temp? Soemthimes I can only decrease temp and not increase (when I press the red arrow it does nothing).

Just going through a few old replies I never read, this sounds more like a stuffed hot button on your climate control unit. I'd buy a second hand unit or take it to a small electronics store :) you often find one little old guy that owns it and will help with anything electronic. They'd be the two things I'd conceder anyway. Seen r32 climate control units on eBay for $200.

  • 4 months later...

Hey mate, I've got 2 climate controls, both work fine fast heat fast cold up down ect, my heater was stuck on and heater tap wasn't moving on FC so I changed it now it does, however it's still stuck on hot air when I change the heat up and down and the tap isn't moving, I think it's a sensor somewhere but neither of the units will go into diagnostic mode, any ideas anyone? Help will be appreciated cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...