Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you are running true semi slick and only driving it on a race track I agree, anything else and imo the slightest bump and you'll be getting wheel spin.

What dampeners are you running? The issue with most 8/6 rates is they come in a coilover kit with crappy shocks.

That doesnt mean the spring rate is wrong. It means your shocks are too rubbish for the level of performance/grip you desire

If you are running a POS pogo stick brand of shock then it doesnt matter what spring rate you throw at it...it will be rubbish. Run a basic Bilstein or Koni and get them valved to suit a higher rate spring and it will be fine.

I run Tein RAs, was going to revalve my old Bilsteins but grabbed these as they have allow bodies. My car doesnt get wheelspin even in second on the street. Good tyres, good alignment and reasonable quality shocks and you can put 300rwkws to the ground without a lot of fuss.

Dont see the point of running the cheap coil overs. If you are spending $1200 may as well save up and spend 2k for a far better result. Then you can run whatever spring rate that suits the grip of tyre you run.

That doesnt mean the spring rate is wrong. It means your shocks are too rubbish for the level of performance/grip you desire

Yep, I run DMS 9kg front, and 5.5kg rears. Interestingly for the 32 GTR this is their (DMS) "targa spec" rates with valving to suit. So more of an all-rounder than a straight circuit setup. You certainly can't afford it to be drifting or spinning wheels in a Targa event I assure you.

And it feels very sure-footed - still with some good compliance.

As Roy points out, a good deal has to do with valving too. I think a lot of people try to 'over dampen' - using the shock to 'stiffen' the ride.

Good work Simon!

With all that new found grip out of corners I definitely will not be giving you ~any~ head start onto the front main straight at next years Powercruise... ;)

Grip ftw!

Like you gave me any head start this year! haha

I think by the time powercruise comes around I'll be running MT Streets on the rear to scare the GTR's :)

That doesnt mean the spring rate is wrong. It means your shocks are too rubbish for the level of performance/grip you desire

You are right, I'm guessing Simon isn't running bilsteins or a decent shock though, didn't he say he was running a jap coilover unit? Even the 'good' brands are still average from what I've heard. How does the tein hold up compared to a new bilstein? Not first hand information but people told me that there was no comparison, how true is that?

Edited by Rolls

Looking at the times Simon's car is doing then I dont think there is that much wrong with the Greddy Type S shocks he is running. An S15 did an easy 1:44 at PI the other day with Greddy Type R shocks, before its engine gave way. So again must be reasonable if doing those times so easily.

Simon's thread isnt really the place, but I think Tein make fair, good and very good gear...Off the shelf Bilstein are a good flexible product, that can be valved to suit pretty serious applications. Just like ECUs and tuning, if you are going to play with suspension best put your belief in the shop that has runs on the board with that type of setup with plenty of proven results

:) Well read your signature... 135mph?? Sheesh! You get NO head starts..! ;)

132.5 not 135 haha

You have no idea how emo I was after getting chopped by the GTR's all weekend because they were gassing second gear half way through the corner... I was lucky to get traction in 3rd in a straight line :domokun:

Edited by SimonR32

Yeh, so many S13/R32s etc all complain about not being able to get 180-200rwkws to the ground and these days I automatically assume its because they run "fully-sik" all sub frame bushes.

Ill just say here ive converted to s14 rear cradle in my 32 with alloy craddle bushes and this a has 5x the amount of grip and stabillity the car now has so in some cases alloy sub frame bushes will work i mean full alloy bushes though not the lil c looking ones.I was very impressed with the grib and stabillity it has bought back alot of grip

Ill just say here ive converted to s14 rear cradle in my 32 with alloy craddle bushes and this a has 5x the amount of grip and stabillity the car now has so in some cases alloy sub frame bushes will work i mean full alloy bushes though not the lil c looking ones.I was very impressed with the grib and stabillity it has bought back alot of grip

That was my original plan but lack of time and extra effort put me off... I may end up going that way one day if I feel the need!

What kind of subframe bushes/alignment were you using before the swap? and also how much extra NVH are you getting with the solid bushes?

Ill just say here ive converted to s14 rear cradle in my 32 with alloy craddle bushes and this a has 5x the amount of grip and stabillity the car now has so in some cases alloy sub frame bushes will work i mean full alloy bushes though not the lil c looking ones.I was very impressed with the grib and stabillity it has bought back alot of grip

but what did you convert from..

i mean does it have 5x the grip of an already good setup or was yoursetup all wrong in the first place...

but what did you convert from..

i mean does it have 5x the grip of an already good setup or was yoursetup all wrong in the first place...

That's what I was hinting at... If he has gone from Whiteline "maximum traction" setting to this and thinks he has got 5 times the amount of traction I think I will have to make the change :thumbsup:

Just dont tell too many people in Vic that simple bushes in the rear ends of S13/R32 is the way to go for great traction. I am posting vids of PI up this weekend. You will be amazed by the power down in 2nd gear with attitude on the car. Keen to see you vids...your times are mighty quick

Just dont tell too many people in Vic that simple bushes in the rear ends of S13/R32 is the way to go for great traction. I am posting vids of PI up this weekend. You will be amazed by the power down in 2nd gear with attitude on the car. Keen to see you vids...your times are mighty quick

I was fairly happy with the times considering it's a street car with no cage and full interior etc and probably the worst aero in the world haha. I'm going to purchase a Gopro Hero2 when I get back from my holiday :thumbsup:

Edited by SimonR32

Well looking at those fancy R32s, Series 6/7/8 RX7s and S14s etc running around in your Improved prod class, they are only doing 1:04s! And from memory all the big bangers in the top 10 at the WA Dutton Rally were generally only 62 sec mark

I think there would have been a 65 in it with a bit more practice but I was still tentative on the brakes after I went off backwards into turn 1 last time I was at the track.

The last lap of the weekend I was going to do a balls out lap with around 50 extra hp plus 500rpm to see just how that would go but alas it blew the cooler pipe off as soon as I got on the gas along the main straight haha :pirate:

Edited by SimonR32
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...